Removing mats

Removing hair mats is fraught with potential complications. Mats are often firmly attached to the skin, so you must be extremely careful not to cut the skin as you cut off the mat.

Begin by brushing and combing as much as possible. Many small mats can be removed with a thorough brushing. If they remain, try to make them smaller by brushing the hair near the mat. Once you are sure that the mat can only be removed by cutting the hair, then reach for the scissors.

Clippers are the safest and best way to remove matted hair. Unfortunately, most people do not own clippers and must make do with scissors. If this is true for you, be very careful.

Begin by isolating the mat.

Comb Method


If possible, take a fine tooth comb and slide it between the mat and the skin. This will help prevent the skin from getting cut. If a fine tooth comb is not working, any comb will do.


Once the comb is under the mat, cut the hair between the mat and the comb.

Scissor Debulking Method


If you cannot place a comb between the skin and mat, open the scissors and carefully place one blade through the base of the mat.


Cut up and away from the skin. Do not cut toward the skin.


Cutting the mat upward will divide the mat and allow you to comb the rest of the mat away.

Scissor Removal Method

The safest way to trim the hair with scissors is also the slowest and most tedious.


Place one blade of the open scissors through a thin layer of hair near the base of the mat. Make sure you can see the scissor blade.


Slowly cut the hair, making sure there is no skin involved.


Continue to do this until the mat is removed.


Always make sure you can see the scissor blade through the hair.

The best way to avoid cutting your pet’s hair is to groom her frequently and not allow the mats to form.

Your dog Spot lived up to his name, and now it's time to give him a bath. Beside the fact that he will smell clean, look clean and not shed as much, bathing is essential to his good health. Regular bathing also helps you to spot parasites such as fleas and ticks. But you need to find the right shampoo and conditioner. Don't reach for the same brands you use. Pet shampoos are formulated specifically for dogs, and human shampoos can cause irritation.

Selecting the right shampoos and conditioners depends upon your pet’s specific needs. If your pet has a chronic skin disease, check with your veterinarian before using any shampoo or conditioner.

How often your dog will need to be bathed depends on your pet’s lifestyle. Dogs that live or spend a lot of time outside, swim or hunt will need more frequent bathing than a lap dog that rarely leaves the yard. Dogs with long hair coats need more bathing than dogs with short fur and almost always need conditioner to smooth the coat and remove tangles.

Shampoos

Before using any shampoo on your pet, protect his eyes with a drop of mineral oil or eye ointment. Place a little cotton in the ears to prevent water from reaching the ear canal, too, but remember to remove it when you are done.

Flea and Tick Control

Fleas or ticks on your pet require immediate attention. Fleabites often induce allergic reactions that can cause your dog severe irritation and itching. They may scratch themselves to the point of skin damage and infection. Most flea shampoos contain mild short-acting ingredients that will kill the fleas rapidly but do not have a long residual effect. Check the label carefully for any warnings. Most flea products cannot be used on young puppies less than six weeks of age. Once the fleas are under control, talk to your veterinarian about flea prevention products.

Cleansing and Deodorizing Shampoo

These shampoos are formulated for the purpose of washing your pet to remove dirt, skin oils and dander. They are pleasantly scented and your choice may be made simply on what appeals to you. These shampoos are a good choice if your pet needs a routine bath.

Color Enhancers

If your dog is a solid color, there are shampoo formulations designed to bring out the natural shine and enhance the colors of black, brown, red and white dogs. Dogs that participate in shows or fun matches are often bathed with color enhancing shampoos. These products do not contain any type of dye, just ingredients to help bring out the best in your dogs natural color.

Medicated Shampoos

If your dog suffers from seasonal allergies or a mild skin irritation, a bath in a soothing shampoo may help to relieve inflammation and make your dog more comfortable. Shampoos formulated to combat itching often contain ingredients such as oatmeal, aloe or tea tree oil. Others may have medicinal ingredients like hydrocortisone, antihistamines or coal tar. Be sure to check with your veterinarian if your dog's skin does not improve.

Herbals, Botanicals and Organics

A variety of natural scents and oils are available in pet shampoos for their organic properties. Papaya and coconut are often used for moisturizing dry skin. Kiwi and citrus are used for their pleasant scent. Aloe and oatmeal are used for irritated skin. If you prefer a holistic approach to your pet’s health care, an herbal shampoo is a good choice for your dog.

Waterless Shampoo

If your dog is fearful or won't tolerate water, there are several varieties of waterless shampoos. Available products include foaming mousse, dry shampoo powder and shampoo wipes. All of these products can be applied to a dry hair coat. Vigorous brushing removes the dirt picked up by the shampoo. These products also work well for "spot" bathing.

Allergy Relief

There's help if you are allergic to pet hair or dander. These shampoos are designed to help keep YOUR allergies under control by reducing shedding, dander and other irritants. Even if your dog has no skin problems of his own, these shampoos may help those pet owners who find themselves allergic to their pets.

Tearstain Remover

Although technically not a shampoo, tearstain removers will help remove the discoloration to the fur that results from chronic tear drainage. This is a common problem for breeds like the poodle, bichon, and Maltese. This solution is applied with a cotton ball or wipe and helps keep this delicate area clean.

Conditioners

Conditioners are primarily used for dogs with medium to long coats to help keep fur soft and tangle-free. If your dog's fur has tangles or mats, they should be removed with appropriate brushes or mat combs. Conditioners are made with the same scents, oils and botanicals as shampoos. Some are "leave in" products; a small amount is applied for a smooth silky coat and left in for added conditioning. Others are applied and rinsed out, as you would shampoo. After applying a conditioning rinse, gently comb the coat until its tangle free and gently dry.

If you read or hear about how some breeds of dogs don't shed, you can discount it. Every dog sheds – some more than others – but they all shed.

So why then do some dogs appear not to shed while others shed so much you could weave a thick blanket out of the discarded fur? The answer lies in the growth rate of the hair, which is based on genetics, nutrition and environment.

Shedding is the process by which old hair naturally falls out and new hair begins to grow in its place. The new hair does not “push out” the old hair. Since hair growth and loss is a continual cycle, there is no true starting point.

When dogs run free in the wild, they brush up against bushes, trees and other flora. This action removes old hair naturally. Our house pets need brushing to accomplish this same goal and to prevent large amounts of hair from accumulating in the coat. But brushing is also good for your dog. It not only decreases the amount of hair on your clothes and furniture; it also stimulates the blood supply to the skin. And brushing your dog’s hair helps to prevent skin parasites, such as mites, fleas and ticks, from infesting your pet and your home and keeps unsightly and sometimes painful mats from forming.

Once the individual old hair has been removed, new hair can form. The growth of hair occurs in three cycles:


Anagen. This is the initial hair-growing phase, the period of active production by the hair follicle.


Catagen. After the hair has grown to a specific length, determined by genetics, the hair enters this temporary transitional state.


Telogen. After a brief time, the hair then enters the final resting phase or non-growing state.

Exactly when the hair falls from the follicle and sheds depends on environment, heredity and nutrition. For “non-shedding” dogs, the hair growth is much slower and few hairs are shed at a time, giving the false impression that the dog does not shed.

At any point, approximately 90 percent of a dog’s hair is in the growth stage. The remaining hair is in either the resting or transitional phase. The growing phase occurs in patterns and is not synchronized all over the body.

Shedding in dogs is influenced by the amount of time spent in the sunlight and by temperature fluctuations. Outdoor dogs usually shed their thick undercoat in the spring to prepare for warmer weather. Indoor dogs shed all year long but in smaller amounts, since they are exposed to a more constant temperature and consistent light source. A dog’s shedding cycle may also change as the pet ages or becomes ill.

Some female dogs shed more hair than usual after they have been in heat. This usually occurs around 3 to 4 years of age, if at all. Some breeders refer to this as “blowing their coat.”

Puppies’ coats are usually fuzzy with short, downy hair. In some breeds this hair may not change to the adult coat until the age of 5 months. The best time to begin grooming is when your pet is still a puppy. By spending a few minutes every day gently brushing your puppy, you are creating a close, trusting bond. Eventually, your dog may look forward to this time every day.

Adequate grooming, proper diet and exercise all contribute to a shiny, healthy-looking coat and a happy pet. If your dog appears to be losing a large amount of hair and/or if the coat is dull and dry, see your veterinarian.

Grooming Tips

Brush short-coated dogs two to three times per week whether they have smooth or rough hair. You can use a hound glove (a grooming glove with wire bristles in the palm) with medium-soft bristles. Gently brush in the direction of hair growth (with the grain).

Medium-coated dogs like golden retrievers require a slightly firmer bristle brush. Be sure to brush the feathering (longer hair) on the chest and legs, too. Again brush with the grain of the hair.

Long-coated dogs, such as Yorkshire terriers and Afghan hounds, require a soft, long-bristle brush and wide-tooth comb and should be brushed daily. Grasp a handful of hair and gently brush from the skin outward, paying special attention to mats. Severe mats can only be removed by careful shaving, which should only be done by your veterinarian or a professional groomer. Combing afterward can help smooth the coat.

Dogs with double coats, such as Alaskan malamutes and Pomeranians, require a stiff long-bristle or wire brush. These breeds have a thicker undercoat that can get trapped in the outer coat during shedding. Brush with the grain of the hair at least two to three times weekly. Daily brushing is recommended during the shedding period.

Carder or slicker brushes are also useful. These consist of a small, flat board with multiple, fine wire teeth on one side and a short handle. They are especially useful with mats. You may need to experiment with several types of brushes before you find the one that is best for your dog.

Brushing is only one part of a thorough grooming regimen, and if done on a regular basis, only about 10 minutes a day are needed. To learn more about grooming, consult your veterinarian or a professional groomer.

There are several types of nail trimmers available for grooming your dog or cat. The type you choose should be based on the size of your pet – smaller pets have smaller nails and large dogs have large hard toenails.

Nail Trimmers for Cats

Most nail trimmers for cats are quite similar. They look like small scissors and each blade has a half circle indentation. The nail is placed on the open blade, and as the scissor closes, the blades come together and cut the nail. The nails of very young kittens are soft and human nail trimmers can be used.

Nail Trimmers for Dogs

Dogs come in all sizes and so do their nails. Even in young puppies, nails tend to be quite tough. There are three primary types of nail trimmers for dogs: guillotine style, Miller’s forge and large nail trimmers.


Guillotine style: This style is quite popular, especially for smaller dogs, because of the ease in placing the nail. The nail is passed through a metal hoop at the end of the trimmer and the handles are closed. As they close, a metal trimmer slides across the metal loop and trims the nail. Some people find the squeeze-type closure of the handles easier to use than scissor-type handles. However, the blades need to be changed frequently and it is not effective on larger dogs.


Miller’s forge trimmers: These trimmers are used mostly on small and medium sized dogs. The trimmer looks similar to scissors with blades that have semi-circular indentations. When the blades are opened, the semicircles make a circular opening into which the nail is placed. With the nail in position, the handles are closed and the nail is trimmed. Miller’s forge trimmers are stronger than the guillotine style and they do not have blades that need to be replaced. However, the handles are far apart and can be difficult to operate for people with small hands.


Large dog nail trimmers. These trimmers are used primarily for large dogs. Like Miller’s forge trimmers, they have handles similar to scissors and blades with semicircular indentations. However, the blades are thicker and stronger than any other trimmer and they separate far enough to allow large nails to fit. These blades do not need replacement, but this type can be clumsy to use on smaller dogs.

Coat Conditioner For Dogs

(Rosemary herbs helps repel fleas & Conditions coat)
1 teaspoon dried Rosemary leaves (or 1 tablespoon of fresh herb) Bring to the boil 1 pint of water. Combine & steep for 10 minutes, covered. Strain & cool to body temperature. Pour it over your dog as a final rinse. Rub in and towel dry without further rinsing.

There are tear stain home remedies using mixtures of milk of magnesia, corn starch and peroxide, or bleach (usually hydrogen peroxide) used for human hair. However, if you were not to mix these properly, use precisely the right strength of each ingredient, and apply them safely, you could potentially harm your dog. No solution should ever be splashed into the pet's eye, or allowed to wick through the facial hair into the eye area. For this reason we are not providing you with the formulas here, and suggest you look to over-the-counter products. Read and follow all instructions very carefully.

Keep in mind that you are treating the eye area of your pet and you can harm their sensitive areas. A full amount of caution and concern must be exercised whenever you use any product or mixture near eyes.

If the muzzle is stained and not the paws, there are other possibilities:
Many people recommend that you use a ceramic (safe for eating) bowl or steel bowl instead of plastic
You can teach your dog to drink from a water bottle instead of a bowl so that the beard isn't constantly wet
Look at the food your dog is eating. Is there red food dye in the ingredients? This can cause staining. Check treats also. Sometimes even beets in the food can be a problem. If you give human food occasionally, make sure it isn't anything such as spaghetti sauce!
The quality of your tap water may be to blame. You might want to switch to bottled or filtered water.
What is your soil like? If you live in an area with a high iron content, that could cause a problem.
Some people believe that 250mgs of Ester C each day will help keep the beard clean.
If your dog's muzzle is stained, you can dip a cotton ball in Hydrogen Peroxide and wipe the beard daily. At first the stain may turn pink but eventually it should almost whiten until it can be replaced with new growth. When the new hair grows in unstained, continue to do this to help prevent future stains.

Should my dog be clipped close for the hot summer months?" is a question asked by many pet owners at this time of year.
The answer may be unexpected: it isn't the length of the dog's coat, but the pet owners' willingness to devote time to caring for it that determines whether a summer haircut is needed.

If the animal is healthy, even the longest-coated dog can be comfortable in hot climates, according to Best Friends Director of Groomer Val Penstone. In fact, the hair on a well-groomed dog will actually keep him cool - because it acts as insulation against the heat. A dog's coat also provides protection from sunburn and from parasites.

This is true even for heavy-coated breeds, because coat thickness is not the primary cause of susceptibility to heat stress. In fact, obesity plays a larger role.

To cut or not to cut
The key to answering the question of whether or not to cut, is the coat's condition A matted coat will trap heat and moisture, causing redness, irritation and odors. It requires thorough and frequent brushing to prevent mats and the corresponding skin problems and discomfort. When hair becomes severely matted, even a professional groomer won't be able to brush out the mats and a drastic clip-down becomes a necessity.

The best strategy, says Penstone, is to keep your pet's coat trimmed year round -- unless you are willing to spend time every day brushing and combing, Most dogs need a haircut every six to nine weeks, and dogs with fluffy coats or long straight coats will need to be clipped even more often. Speaking with a professional groomer about your pet and your expectation is the best way to determine your individual pet's grooming needs.

Hot weather advice
If you decide to proceed with a short clipping for summer comfort, it's important to remember that, without his coat, your pet will need extra protection from the sun, flies and other parasites.

In fact, in hot weather, precautions should be taken for all breeds. Dogs don't sweat, and they don't have an efficient way to cool themselves down. It's important to curtail exercise in the hottest part of the day, and provide shade, access to a cool spot, or air conditioning to prevent heat stress related problems from developing.

Grooming is an important part of your dog’s health program. “Grooming” is a word used to describe shampooing, drying, hair cutting, nail trimming, ear cleaning and anal gland expression. Mats are removed and dead hair brushed out. Not only does grooming make your dog clean and odor free, but it also stimulates the blood supply to the skin, giving your pet a healthier and shinier coat.

Grooming can also help you bond with your pet, but you need to know what’s involved. You may be able to perform some grooming, but want to leave the tougher aspects to a professional. Or you may find that you have the right knack to do it all. Here are some things to think about:

Who Will Do the Grooming? The first question to ask yourself is do you do it yourself or find a professional? The answer to this question lies in the time, money and equipment that you own to groom and the cooperative personality of your pet. Please see the related article on how to find a professional groomer.

How Often? That all depends on your pet. Factors include: his hair coat, hair length, how often he gets dirty, where he lives (if he is indoor or outdoors most of the time), shedding cycle, and any underlying skin problem (please see our related article, "Top Medical Reasons for Grooming Your Dog"). Some dogs need baths only a couple times year while others need weekly grooming. It is beneficial to brush your dog about twice a week. Bathing your dog every month or two isn’t unreasonable, but some dogs will need more frequent cleanings. A good rule of thumb is to bathe your pet only when his coat gets dirty or begins to smell “doggy.”

When Do You Start? Start regular grooming when you first bring your dog home and make it a part of his routine. Praise your dog when he holds still and soon he will come to enjoy the extra attention. Get him used to having his paws handled while still a puppy. Once you start using the nail trimmers, go slowly: Try trimming just a few nails in one sitting. Maintain a regular schedule and be persistent. Your pet will eventually develop patience and learn to cooperate.

What Tools Do You Need? That depends on your dog’s hair type and length. Purchase a good-quality brush and comb and get your dog used to being handled. Types of hair coats include a long double, long silky, short smooth, short double, short wiry, curly or hairless. Some breeds have special grooming needs, so ask your vet or a professional groomer for advice on particular equipment necessary for your pet. Certain grooming supplies (see related articles) work best with the different coat types, such as slicker brushes, curved combs and rakes.

Keeping your dog healthy means paying regular attention to bathing, grooming and brushing. Even dogs with short hair will benefit from this often overlooked aspect of his health. Grooming does more than just make your dog look and smell nice. Here are the top medical reasons why regular grooming will help your dog stay healthy and feel better.

The Better To See You With

Keeping your dog’s face free of long hair that can irritate the eyes will make him feel more comfortable and prevent eye problems. Many dogs, such as the shih tzu, Lhasa apso and poodle, have long hair that hangs in the eyes causing irritation and damage to the cornea. Check your dog to see if there are hairs lying on the eye. These should be trimmed by a groomer, or drawn up in a bow to keep your dog’s face clean and clear. NEVER use scissors or sharp implements around the eyes.

Some dogs have a problem with drainage from the eyes. This problem may have many causes. Check with your veterinarian to help rule out any medical conditions that can be solved. If the drainage is persistent, make sure you keep it wiped away. Skin and fur that stays constantly moist can discolor and become infected.

My, What Big Ears You Have

Those long floppy ears are endearing but they cover your dog’s ear canal creating a moist warm environment that lacks air circulation. This can cause your dog to suffer from chronic ear infections that can be difficult to cure and can re-occur. Cocker spaniels, shar-peis and golden retrievers are just a few of the breeds that suffer from this all too common problem. Infections that go unchecked can result in serious and painful ear disease.

Learn how to clean your dog's ears to help prevent these problems. Your veterinarian can show you how to clean them properly and advise you on the use of an ear cleaning solution. Have your groomer shave the hair from the inside of the pinna (the floppy part of the ear) to allow for air circulation, and gently remove any hair that may be growing in the ear canals. Once again, NEVER use scissors or sharp implements in or near the ears. A healthy ear should look and smell clean. Any foul odor, discharge or excessive scratching should be immediately investigated.

Say Cheese

Dental disease in dogs is common. Checking your dog’s mouth and teeth will help you spot trouble before it becomes a big problem. Your veterinarian can show you how to keep your dog’s teeth clean with brushes and toothpastes designed specifically for dogs. Your older dog may not think too much of dental care. If you can't get him to accept having his teeth brushed, make it a regular habit to check his teeth for tartar, chipping or excessive wear, or any lump or bump that looks suspicious. Dental disease can be very painful and serve as a source of infection for the rest of the body, so check those teeth and tell your dog’s doctor if you find a problem.

Everybody Into the Tub

Most every dog will need a bath a few times a year. This need will vary depending on your dog’s lifestyle, breed and any skin problems he may have. Bathing helps remove old hair, dirt and oil from the skin. The physical action of being washed is pleasant to most dogs and it may make you aware of a lump or bump that may have appeared or changed suddenly.

This is also a good time to check for parasites such as fleas and ticks. Dogs that swim in natural waterways such as lakes, ponds and rivers, or those lucky enough to visit the beach should be rinsed after every outing. There are a lot of different shampoos and conditioners for every type and color of dog. Your groomer or veterinarian can advise you if your dog has special needs. Be sure to protect your dog's eyes with a little mineral oil or eye ointment before bathing.

Break out the Brushes

Between baths, brushing your dog will help keep the coat clean and free of hair mats. Mats can be irritating and cause skin disease under the hair. Longhaired dogs require everyday brushing to keep their coats healthy. Most dogs enjoy grooming and often wait eagerly to be combed. If your dog’s fur is badly matted, he may need to be shaved. This is a job for a groomer. NEVER attempt to cut of hair mats with a scissors; you may cut the skin as well. As your dog's hair grows back, begin with daily brushing to keep the new hair soft and tangle free.

Nails

By far the most dreaded grooming chore is trimming your dog’s nails. If you have a young dog, touch her feet and toes often to get her used to having her feet handled. Older dogs often are very frightened by the chore of nail trimming and may be completely uncooperative. Despite their protests, nail trimming is a must. Long overgrown nails often break at the base exposing the nail bed. Walking on long nails can be painful, aggravate arthritis and cause the toes to splay. Long nails can curve around and grow into the pads. A dog walking on overgrown nails is like you trying to walk in swim fins. Your veterinarian will show you how to properly trim nails and claws.

Mentioning the Unmentionable

Lastly, there is your dog's rear end. Most dog owners don't make it a habit to check their dog’s bottom but it is an important place to look. Longhaired animals can get feces trapped in the hair surrounding the anus causing an obstruction. Have your groomer keep this area clipped short. Situated to the sides of the anus are two anal glands. These glands manufacture a foul smelling material that is normally expressed when your dog has a bowel movement. These glands can become painfully blocked and infected. Learn to recognize the sign of infection. Scooting is often a giveaway.

Your veterinarian can help keep these sacs empty. And lastly, and most indelicately, your dog’s rear end is a place to attract parasites. It is easy to see fleas here, and those awful signs of a tapeworm infection, small white worms that look like grain of rice or cucumber seeds. Even the nicest dogs can get them. Have your veterinarian look at any suspicious life forms you find.