Evolutionary behavior

If we are going to undertake to train this dog into the companion that we want him to be, then it is important that we understand what the animal is and what the animal wants to be. Remember that domestication of dogs is a relatively recent event in the grand scheme of their existence. They have been around for millions of years but only a few thousand of those years with us. By looking back with an evolutionary point of view, we can see that dogs spent a long time forming a life style and the types of behavior that perpetuated their existence. In their world, before they teamed up with us, there were no food bowls set on the floor always filled with a balanced diet. No individuals, except other pack members, guarded them from injury, and there was no large pharmaceutical industry to protect them from disease. Through natural selection, a canine model was formed that had the physical and mental abilities to continue their species. Their behavior patterns guided them through their day-to-day and year-to-year existence helping them to make the right choices to protect themselves and their offspring. If this would not have been accomplished they would be classified with the dinosaurs.
Their daily life was guided by behavior and interactions that occurred between them and other members of their group. Wild dogs choose to live in packs. This is a better way of guaranteeing a near constant supply of food if they work together. Being carnivores or at least high level omnivores, wild dogs are usually predators. To kill an adequate amount of food at one time typically means bringing down a large animal. This is much easier for a pack of dogs to accomplish than it is for a single animal. Not only is it easier to find food if many different sets of eyes are looking, but they can then cooperate in the chase and kill. There is also safety in numbers. Almost every animal has some enemy that is trying to eat it and wild dogs are no different. They are able to gain additional protection from these larger or more efficient predators by banding together in a pack versus attempting to defend themselves as a single animal.

For dogs, being part of a group of dogs has provided them with many benefits. Much of their natural instinctive behavior revolves around learning how to deal with or interact with other members of the pack. Even as puppies their play with other members is important. It either teaches them hunting skills or how to interact with the other dogs. Young dogs jump up on each other or their parents in mock battles that imitate future hunts. In a controlled fashion, they snap and bite at each other just as they will at a prey animal.

To preserve some sort of order in the associations, a social hierarchy is established. To prevent constant and potentially harmful battles for who gets what or who is allowed to breed, the individual dogs learn their relative position in the pack. Rather than have vicious battles on a daily basis, these positions are maintained through behavioral interactions. Dogs soon learn what submissive and dominant actions are and how to play the game. Specific postures and facial expressions are used as signals to maintain this order. Still, because of their instinctive will to survive and do what is best for themselves as an individual, most animals constantly try to improve their rank in the pack and this can lead to brief skirmishes. This is their way of life, the best way for their species to survive.

Wild dogs do other specific things on a day-to-day basis that help them to survive. Dogs naturally dig holes for protection. This may be to cool their bodies on hot days or make dens in which to whelp and raise their litters. They bark at intruders to warn other pack members of a potential danger, or at other times, to signal their own location. They use their stool and urine as territorial-marking devices to show that the space contained within these boundaries is an area they possess.

The things we have described here are those that make a wild dog an effective being. These behaviors come quite naturally for the animal. However, many of these behaviors we will try to eliminate through training. Most things that wild dogs do in their day-to-day existence are unacceptable to us if they are going to be a part of our home and family. We don't want them digging up our yard. We don't want them to mark their territory inside our homes with urine or stool. We don't want them to bark excessively. We don't want them jumping up on us. We don't want them to bite us. We don't want them to attempt to dominate us or any other human members of the household, etc., etc., etc. Regardless of how politically incorrect it may sound, we are not going to let the dog be himself. The dog has to change. We just have to remember that we have to make all these compromises worthwhile for the dog.

If we are going to understand dog behavior, then it is important to understand the history behind the domestic dog. Remember that domestication of dogs is a relatively recent event in the grand scheme of their existence. Wild canines have been around for millions of years but have only lived with us a few thousand of those years. By looking back with an evolutionary point of view, we can see that wild canines spent a long time forming a life style and the types of behavior that perpetuated their existence. In their world, before they teamed up with us, there were no food bowls set on the floor always filled with a balanced diet. No individuals, except other pack or family members, guarded them from injury, and there were no veterinarians, vaccines, and medications to protect them from disease. Through natural selection, a canine model was formed that had the physical and mental abilities to continue their species. Their behavior patterns guided them through their day-to-day and year-to-year existence helping them to make the right choices to protect themselves and their offspring. If this would not have been accomplished they would be classified with the dinosaurs.
The daily life of wild canines was guided by behavior and interactions that occurred between them and other members of their group. Wild canines often chose to live in social groups usually made up of members of the same family. This was a better way of guaranteeing protection and a near constant supply of food if they worked together. For larger canines, this meant they could hunt together to bring down a large animal. For those wild canines who were scavengers, being in a group helped protect them from a larger predator as they scavanged its prey. They are able to gain additional protection from these larger or more efficient predators by banding together in a pack versus attempting to defend themselves as a single animal.

For dogs, being part of a social group provides them many benefits, too. Much of their natural instinctive behavior revolves around learning how to interact with other members of their species. As puppies, their play with other family members is important. It teaches them how to properly interact with other dogs. Socialization with people is also vitally important if the puppy is to grow up valuing human companionship.

Domestic dogs prefer living in a social environment, and generally consider "their" humans as part of the family. In some families, they share their lives with humans as well as other dogs. In these social settings, it helps them to know who is the leader in their social group. Well-trained dogs are taught to look at the humans as their leaders. This should be accomplished early on, not by showing any type of physical domination, but by being the leader mentally. Helping the dog to gently and consistently know what is acceptable behavior, will actually help your dog be more comfortable. For a dog, as for people, not knowing what is expected of you can be very stressful, as can mixed messages.

As we train our dogs, we need to remember that wild canines do a number of things on a day-to-day basis that help them to survive. Wild canines naturally dig holes for protection. This may be to cool their bodies on hot days or make dens in which to whelp and raise their litters. They bark at intruders to warn other group members of a potential danger, or at other times, to signal their own location. They use their stool and urine as territorial-marking devices to show that the space contained within these boundaries is an area they possess. The things we have described here are those that make a wild canine an effective being. These behaviors come quite naturally for the animal. However, many of these behaviors we will try to eliminate in domestic dogs through training. Many things that wild dogs do in their day-to-day existence are unacceptable to us if they are going to be a part of our home and family. We don't want them digging up our yard. We don't want them to mark their territory inside our homes with urine or stool. We don't want them to bark excessively. We don't want them jumping up on us, etc., etc., etc. Knowing these behaviors are natural for canines will help us better understand our dogs and provide better alternatives for these potentially problematic behaviors. Using positive reinforcement and other good training skills we can mold these behaviors into ones that are more acceptable to us

If we are going to understand dog behavior, then it is important to understand the history behind the domestic dog. Remember that domestication of dogs is a relatively recent event in the grand scheme of their existence. Wild canines have been around for millions of years but have only lived with us a few thousand of those years. By looking back with an evolutionary point of view, we can see that wild canines spent a long time forming a life style and the types of behavior that perpetuated their existence. In their world, before they teamed up with us, there were no food bowls set on the floor always filled with a balanced diet. No individuals, except other pack or family members, guarded them from injury, and there were no veterinarians, vaccines, and medications to protect them from disease. Through natural selection, a canine model was formed that had the physical and mental abilities to continue their species. Their behavior patterns guided them through their day-to-day and year-to-year existence helping them to make the right choices to protect themselves and their offspring. If this would not have been accomplished they would be classified with the dinosaurs.

The daily life of wild canines was guided by behavior and interactions that occurred between them and other members of their group. Wild canines often chose to live in social groups usually made up of members of the same family. This was a better way of guaranteeing protection and a near constant supply of food if they worked together. For larger canines, this meant they could hunt together to bring down a large animal. For those wild canines who were scavengers, being in a group helped protect them from a larger predator as they scavanged its prey. They are able to gain additional protection from these larger or more efficient predators by banding together in a pack versus attempting to defend themselves as a single animal.

For dogs, being part of a social group provides them many benefits, too. Much of their natural instinctive behavior revolves around learning how to interact with other members of their species. As puppies, their play with other family members is important. It teaches them how to properly interact with other dogs. Socialization with people is also vitally important if the puppy is to grow up valuing human companionship.

Domestic dogs prefer living in a social environment, and generally consider "their" humans as part of the family. In some families, they share their lives with humans as well as other dogs. In these social settings, it helps them to know who is the leader in their social group. Well-trained dogs are taught to look at the humans as their leaders. This should be accomplished early on, not by showing any type of physical domination, but by being the leader mentally. Helping the dog to gently and consistently know what is acceptable behavior, will actually help your dog be more comfortable. For a dog, as for people, not knowing what is expected of you can be very stressful, as can mixed messages.

As we train our dogs, we need to remember that wild canines do a number of things on a day-to-day basis that help them to survive. Wild canines naturally dig holes for protection. This may be to cool their bodies on hot days or make dens in which to whelp and raise their litters. They bark at intruders to warn other group members of a potential danger, or at other times, to signal their own location. They use their stool and urine as territorial-marking devices to show that the space contained within these boundaries is an area they possess. The things we have described here are those that make a wild canine an effective being. These behaviors come quite naturally for the animal. However, many of these behaviors we will try to eliminate in domestic dogs through training. Many things that wild dogs do in their day-to-day existence are unacceptable to us if they are going to be a part of our home and family. We don't want them digging up our yard. We don't want them to mark their territory inside our homes with urine or stool. We don't want them to bark excessively. We don't want them jumping up on us, etc., etc., etc. Knowing these behaviors are natural for canines will help us better understand our dogs and provide better alternatives for these potentially problematic behaviors. Using positive reinforcement and other good training skills we can mold these behaviors into ones that are more acceptable to us.

A dog's scent organ (inside his nose) is about four times larger than a human's, and a dog's sense of smell is about 50-100 times more powerful than ours. Although all dogs have a powerful sense of smell, some breeds have a greater talent for sniffing out things. A few examples are Basset Hounds, Bloodhounds, and Beagles, which are considered 'scent hounds.' If you live with a scent hound, you know how difficult it is to get his mind focused on anything but odors.

Dealing with the hyperactive dog

If you live with a young adult dog, you may have noticed that he gets somewhat blurry at times. Young dogs can be very active pets; add to this the factor of size and perhaps obedience skills that need polish, and you may find yourself roommates with a canine Tasmanian devil. Some dogs seize every available opportunity to run, jump, bark, pull on their leads, and generally act like they have fleas beneath their bonnets. In a moment of exhaustion, you might naturally wonder whether your dog is normal or whether he suffers from some canine version of attention-deficit-hyperactivity disorder (ADHD). ADHD is certainly a frequently diagnosed disorder in children -- but is it as likely to affect dogs?

True hyperactivity, or hyperkinesis, does occur in dogs but is a relatively uncommon condition. Hyperkinetic dogs usually appear abnormal, even frantic, and will not stop their frenetic behaviour until they collapse with exhaustion. Panting and restless, their heart rates run high as they move endlessly. However, because it can be hard to tell the difference between an affected dog and one who is simply unruly -- or, for that matter, a dog with an obsessive-compulsive movement disorder such as tail-chasing -- veterinarians may recommend a test trial with stimulant medication. While normal dogs will show no response or an increase in activity level, biologically hyperkinetic dogs will respond by slowing down. Whether your veterinarian suggests inpatient testing with an amphetamine-like drug or a trial period with methylphenidate (Ritalin®) or other therapeutic drug, such testing can help determine whether your dog would benefit from medication.

The great majority of hyperactive dogs, however, are perfectly normal -- even if they are a little difficult to live with. Unruliness, poorly controlled behaviour, resistance to obedience training, excessive barking and jumping are behaviours that can be managed with persistence and obedience training. If your dog is difficult to control, take advantage of local dog-training clubs, perhaps working individually with a trainer to trouble-shoot any problems that might develop. It is doubly important to take the skills learned in obedience class and apply them to your dog's everyday circumstances -- at home, in the car and at the park. A Schedule active, aerobic exercise into your dog's daily routine; even a brisk game of fetch can do wonders (and, hey, you get to stand still for a change).

Life with a hyperactive dog can be challenging, but rising up to that challenge with consistent training, exercise, play, and plenty of rewards will almost certainly result in a well-behaved pet -- and a physically fit human com

Hyperactivity has the following necessary condition: motor activity in excess of that warranted by the animal’s age and stimulation level that occurs in a consistent, often stereotypical, manner and does not respond to correction, redirection, or restraint. The following condition is sufficient: as above along with sympathetic signs (eg, increased heart rate, increased respiratory rate, vasodilation), even when at rest, in the absence of other signs or significant laboratory data associated with thyroid disease; these dogs respond to treatment with amphetamine or methylphenidate with a paradoxical decrease in motor activity. Most dogs that owners perceive as hyperactive (a diagnosis that does not depend on the dog’s exercise level compared with its needs) are actually overactive (a diagnosis that does depend on the dog’s exercise level compared with its needs [see below]). True hyperactivity is a specific diagnosis for which specific behavioral signs have been poorly elucidated and is a rare condition.

Dogs NEED leaders. They operate on a "pack" system: there are leaders and there are followers. If this system does not exist in a household, often the dog will slip into the leader spot. In it's mind SOMEBODY has to be the leader. Although many dogs would rather not have that spot, they will still end up there.

To dogs, leaders have certain roles, privileges and honours. Leaders are responsible for pack safety. Leaders are responsible for providing food and shelter and have call on all the best stuff. Leaders have the best and highest sleeping spots. Leaders decide when the rest of the pack eats, sleeps, eliminates, and plays and even when they are allowed to breed. In the Wolf pack the Alpha Male and Female inhibit all the other females so they do not even come into season. Some breeds of dogs tend to be more dominant in nature than others such as the guarding breeds. Ie Rottweiler's, German Shepherds, Dobermans etc.

Others are more submissive or easygoing. To start out right with all dogs, leadership needs to begin if possible in the puppy stage. This leadership isn't nasty or violent, and should always be firm but fair. Some behaviourists may discuss shaking a dog up or alpha rolling. These methods have a place ONLY in a reasonable and non-violent situation, and they should never be started with half-grown or adult dogs.

With some dogs your leadership position is easy to have and maintain. Other dogs who may be naturally more dominant must be reminded daily if not more often.

The leadership checklist on the other side of this page includes rules every dog owner should follow. How strictly the list is adhered to will depend on how dominant the dog is. Most of the items on the list should be followed to at least some extent.
Many people do not realize how dominant their dogs really are. Many dogs are quietly (or not so quietly) pushy and will take advantage at every opportunity. For instance stupid puppy type behaviour in an adult dog when you give a command can also be a sign of dominant behaviour and must be checked.

Most items on the checklist are self-explanatory. And can start immediately and once learned you should practice it regularly. If you have any trouble understanding anything or if your dog growls or snaps at your for any reason, stop what you are doing and contact me ASAP for further advice.

Your dog will thank you for the structure and leadership you provide! Believe it or not a dog is far happier not having the worry of leading a pack of errant humans and will be much more amenable once this behaviour and structure is put in place.
But remember you must be alert at all times, lapses and further problems can surface and if so you must correct any aberrant behaviour as it occurs, do not allow it to escalate and get out of hand.

Please remember that the checklist includes ALL the families involvement. In the family unit the dog must always come at the bottom of the pecking order ie after all the human pack irrespective of age.

In conclusion always strive to be consistent, if you issue a command be in a position to enforce it at all times. NEVER EVER issue commands that you cannot control. And remember your dog can have off days. Give him/her time to understand what you want, try not to be impatient, short-tempered or irritable, your dog may be ill, had to much sun a stomach upset or just "dog tired" so give the benefit of the doubt occasionally, your dog will appreciate it.

Leadership Checklist

Feed scheduled mealtimes (No free-feeding) pick up bowl if not finished within ten minutes

Feed AFTER humans eat. Or gesture eat a wafer or biscuit from near the bowl before feeding.

Dogs always go through all doorways and entrances AFTER humans.

Never play tug-of-war with your dog it can cause aggression or damage a puppies jaws or teeth.

If you establish eye contact, dog must avert gaze first.

Dogs are NEVER allowed to bite or mouth ANYONE, ANYWHERE! (This includes play)

No sleeping on your bed, this can cause dominance problems later in life if you must, the dog can be allowed to sleep in the bedroom but on your own terms not the dog's.

Petting or attention to the dog should be given when YOU decide attention is to be given (absolutely NO PETTING when the dog nudges or paws you or your hand)

Puppies or small dogs who demand to be picked up and held and/or demand to be put down. Should not be picked up until they sit or some other acceptable quiet behaviour, and should not be put down until they settle quietly in your lap or in your arms.

Games with toys, especially fetch, are initiated AND ended by the human, toys then put away.

Never put yourself in an equal or lesser height position than your dog (i.e. - kids don't get to lay on the floor to watch TV when the dog is about, and no one plays on the floor below the dogs)

The dog should NEVER be allowed on furniture, especially if uninvited.

Enforced time-outs in crate/ bed - no reason, required, the bed or crate should not be used only when your dog does something bad! But also when it does something good, make it positive.

A simple obedience command, such as "sit" should be obeyed before any pleasurable interaction (eat, pet, play, etc.)

Dog should be taught NOT to pull when on leash. There is a technique to teaching this, which always works within minutes which does not require Halti's or Harnesses.

Dogs should NEVER be left unsupervised with children or ANYONE who cannot maintain leadership over dog.

Dog MUST MOVE if in your path on a floor or stairway, etc. even if you are able to step over him

When on a walk, dog must not be allowed to sniff or eliminate/toilet anywhere he wants (for males, one mark against one tree is enough!) until you get to the park and then it is unlimited.

Everything belongs to you: the toys, the crate, the bowls, the bed, etc - they are only on loan to the dog! You should be able to clean, move, handle or remove any item at any time without hassle from the dog.

Dog should be taught an "out" or release command ("give", "release", "out" or "dead") for things in his/her mouth. Dogs should not be allowed to steal things if that happens, they should be able to release any item on command, if pup won't release squeeze front paw gently increasing pressure till the item is released then praise dog.

Dogs must not be allowed to jump up at ANY time; if you allow it occasionally the dog thinks it's OK behaviour. Dogs do not understand "sometimes" only yes and no!

Some final thoughts! You can take the Dog from the Wolf but never the Wolf from the Dog. It is an instinctive pack animal, and must be treated as such. Treated incorrectly your dog could become stressed, aggressive, or depressed, and could end up with some serious behavioural traits.

Dominance or Hierarchy as it is sometimes called, is a vastly over-rated subject that the majority of people will have some understanding of, as it is frequently spoken and written about. Fortunately, through my work with rescue dogs, I have come to a much clearer understanding of what it means as I have had the opportunity of being with hundreds of dogs on a daily basis and watching behaviour communication between this wonderful species.

It is commonly believed that many pet dog owners that are having problems with their dogs, have in fact a Dominance problem. Many owners can be forgiven for coming to this conclusion, as can many trainers, for there is a huge array of literature on the subject these days and as a human species our goal is often to "control" whatever we come into contact with and this includes our pet dogs. So therefore is it "control or be controlled by your dog"? No - of course it isn't, anymore than it is with our human loved ones. It's understanding, respect for the needs of that person/dog, give/ take, care and love that makes these relationships special.

We ask an awful lot of our dogs when wanting them to fit into our human world. He is expected to fit into a world where humans make most of the rules. He did not choose to live with us, yet we will expect from him compliance and understanding of our rules and language that within our world are socially acceptable.

Having an understanding of his needs makes it much easier for us to have a dog that fits in well with our family and friends and is a joy to live with. We often have situations that we want our dog to fit in with which might mean they need to change their behaviour to suit and fit in with us. This change is often very un-natural to the dog and he may struggle to cope with this change in life style. This can lead to our dog becoming depressed, hyperactive, disobedient etc. If he has his basic needs satisfied within his human family, then he can be more flexible and able to learn more easily from this human family.

Lets briefly look at the difference between a dog's needs and a human's needs. Although this subject could be expanded further in greater detail, I do not feel it appropriate to do so in this particular article. I do propose to produce a booklet soon which will cover the article in greater depth.

Your puppy is howling, whining or barking for a reason. If the problem is not resolved immediately, whining can become an ingrained habit that is intensely irritating and annoying. Many dogs use whining, howling, and barking as a means of vocal blackmail in order to control their owners.
Puppy Whining Do's
-When confined to a crate or small room or pen, always give your puppy the benefit of the doubt. When she begins whining, immediately take her to her toilet area.
-Teach your dog to accept isolation and privacy. Accustom your puppy to being left by herself, even if you are home. This will prevent separation anxiety and all the problems that accompany it.

-Make sure your puppy is comfortable. Is your puppy hungry, thirsty, too hot, too cold, uncomfortable, sick, or has lost her toy under the furniture?

-When you know that all your puppy's physical needs are met and you have taken the time to accustom her to isolation, then teach her that whining is unacceptable.

Puppy Whining Don'ts
-Do not give in and reward your puppy for whining.
-Do not hesitate to appropriately reprimand unnecessary whining.

-Do not let your dog feel abandoned.

-Do not let your dog soil her crate.

If possible, it is best to ignore whining. Everytime you interact with your dog when he whines, even if it is to say "no," you are essentially rewarding him with your attention. So, try to ignore him and if he persists for more than a few minutes, you might consider covering the kennel with a light sheet or towel so he can't see you moving about (which may be stimulating him to whine). Also, be sure to give your dog 2-3 well stuffed (with dog treats, cream cheese, peanut butter, or cold cut pieces) chew toys which should keep him happily occupied and quiet!

Dog intelligence is the ability of a dog to learn, think, and solve problems. Dog trainers, owners, and researchers have as much difficulty agreeing on a method for testing canine intelligence, as they do for human intelligence.

Certain breeds, like Border Collies, Poodles, Vizslas and Golden Retrievers, are generally easier to train than others. It is worth noting that these descriptions are relative to other dogs, not relative to the world at large. The ability to learn and obey commands is not the only possible measurement of intelligence.

Dogs are pack animals, meaning that they understand social structure and obligations and are capable of learning how to behave around other members of the pack. Adult canines train their young by correcting them when they behave in an unacceptable manner (biting too hard, eating out of turn, and so on) and reward them for acceptable behavior (by playing with them, feeding them, cleaning them, and so on).

They are also den animals. This means that they can easily learn behavior related to keeping the den clean (such as housebreaking) and relaxing in an enclosed area (such as a crate during travel or for training).

Some breeds have been selectively bred for hundreds or thousands of years for the quality of learning quickly. That quality has been downplayed for other breeds in favor of other characteristics like the ability to track or hunt game, or to fight other animals. The capacity to learn basic obedience, however, and complicated behavior is inherent in all dogs. Owners must simply be more patient with some breeds than with others.

Nonetheless, inherited behavior is not necessarily an indicator of intelligence. For example, a sheep herding breed, like a Border Collie, would be expected to learn how to herd sheep very quickly and might even perform the job with little training. The same breed, however, would be a challenge to train how to point and retrieve game. Conversely, a Pointer often points to game instinctively and naturally retrieves game without damaging it, but most likely could not be taught to herd sheep.

The meaning of "intelligence" in general, not only in reference to dogs, is hard to define. Some tests measure problem-solving abilities and others test the ability to learn in comparison to others of the same age. Defining it for dogs is just as difficult. It is likely that dogs do not have the ability to premeditate an action to solve a problem. Some dogs may, however, have more drive to keep trying various things until they accidentally reach a solution and still others might have more ability to make the association between the "accident" and the result.[citation needed]

For example, the ability to learn quickly could be a sign of intelligence. Conversely it could be interpreted as a sign of blind subservience and a desire to please. In contrast, some dogs who do not learn very quickly may have other talents. An example is breeds that are not particularly interested in pleasing their owners, such as Siberian Huskies. Huskies are often fascinated with the myriad of possibilities for escaping from yards, catching small animals, and often figuring out on their own numerous inventive ways of doing both.

Assistance dogs, are also required to be obedient at all times. This means they must learn a tremendous number of commands, understand how to act in a large variety of situations, and recognize threats to their human companion, some of which they might never before have encountered.

Many owners of livestock guardian breeds believe that breeds like the Great Pyrenees or the Kuvas are not easily trained because their stubborn nature prevents them from seeing the point of such commands as “sit” or “down”. Hounds may also suffer from this type of ranking as well as several other ranks in the bottom tier of "The Intelligence of Dogs" list (such as Beagles, Bloodhounds, and Basset Hounds).[citation needed] These dogs are bred to have more of a "pack" mentality with other dogs and less reliance on a master's direct commands. While they may not have the same kind of intelligence as a Border Collie, they were not bred to learn and obey commands quickly, but to think for themselves while trailing game.

Certain intelligence tests involve the dog's ability to recognize and respond to a large vocabulary of commands. Other tests involve their desire or ability to respond to different situations. Just as with humans, there is a wide variety of interpretations as to what makes a dog "intelligent".

Various studies have attempted to confirm the intelligence of dogs in a rigorous manner. A recent example is animal psychologist Juliane Kaminski's paper in Science that demonstrated that Rico, a Border Collie, could learn over 200 words. Rico could remember the names of several items for up to four weeks after its last exposure (Kaminski eliminated the Clever Hans effect using strict protocols). Rico was also able to interpret phrases such as "fetch the sock" in terms of its component words (rather than considering its utterance to be a single word). Rico could also give the sock to a specified person.

In his 1996 book Good Natured, ethologist Frans de Waal discusses an experiment on guilt and reprimands conducted on a female Siberian husky. The dog had the habit of shredding newspapers, and when her owner returned home to find the shredded papers and scold her she would act guilty. However, when the owner himself shredded the papers without the dog's knowledge, the dog "acted just as 'guilty' as when she herself had created the mess." De Waal concludes that the "guilt" displayed by dogs is not true guilt but rather the anticipation of the behavior of an angry superior in a given situation.

A recent study surveying dog owners concluded that dogs can feel complex emotions like jealousy, getting in between their owners and other sources of attention.[citation needed]

Psychologist Kathy Coon ranked dog breeds by intelligence in her book The Dog Intelligence Test based on a standardized intelligence test for dogs.

Stanley Coren ranked dog breeds by intelligence in his book The Intelligence of Dogs based on surveys done on dog trainers, the article for which contains a summary of the rankings obtained.

Generalized anxiety has the following necessary conditions: consistent display of autonomic hyperreactivity, increased motor activity, and increased vigilance and scanning that interferes with a normal range of social interaction. The following condition is sufficient: as above in the absolute absence of any provocative stimuli. This diagnosis is specific and could easily be incorrectly made based on an incomplete history or lack of critical thought. Generalized anxiety should be a diagnosis of last resort, and all of the signs should be concomitantly present under conditions in which any of these signs would have subsided in a normal or asymptomatic animal. Cats also exhibit generalized anxiety.

Just like people, dogs dream. Dogs tend to dream with more action and for shorter times than people. Many dogs will move their whiskers and lips, and make licking and chewing motions when they dream. They paddle their feet, almost like they are running. Their eyelids may also twitch, and you may see their eyes moving back and forth rapidly under their eyelids. Some dogs will vocalize, making little yips or howls.

Some people have seen these behaviors when their dog was dreaming and thought that it was a form of a seizure. If a dog is dreaming, he can be easily awakened by calling his name, or patting him on the shoulder. You would not be able to stop a dog from seizuring using those same methods.

Domestication of dogs is a fairly recent event in the history of canids on earth. Although wild canids have been around for millions of years, they have only spent a few thousand of those as our pets. As a result, they still retain some of their 'wild' instincts, and one of those is the instinct to 'den.'
Canines have a definite instinct to hide out in dens. If they do not have one available, they will 'make their own.' We frequently see our dogs under desks, the dining room table, or even under Grandma's Chippendale buffet, if they can fit. When a dog digs a hole in your garden one reason might be the instinct to make a den. What this behavior is all about is a canine's natural desire to have a place he can call his own.

Many people dislike the idea of 'caging' their dog, feeling as if it is cruel and somehow hampering his freedom. This is not true. Just go to a friend's house who has a dog that has been properly crate- (or cage-) trained. The dog will often seek out this refuge when he is tired, stressed, or just wants to be away from it all. Your friend probably feeds her dog in or near his 'den'; has provided soft, comfortable bedding for his 'den'; and has plenty of toys for him to play with or to chew nearby. What dog would not want to stay in a place with so many luxurious amenities? Many people leave a cage or crate available for their dog so he has his own place to go to. The door is always open and the pet comes and goes as he pleases. To him it is not a cage, but rather an indoor doghouse that he feels secure in. Other advantages of cages or crates include:

Safety for your dog and house: Having your young or untrained dog in a cage may protect your house from dog-related destruction while you are away or are unable to watch him. We know of a woman who forgot to put her 10-month old giant breed puppy in his cage. She came home to papers ripped up and strewn all over, the garbage can knocked over, and toilet paper strewn throughout the house. A cage can prevent this type of disaster from happening. It can also prevent the young, unsupervised animal from hurting himself by chewing electric cords or becoming ill from something he ate during his escapade.

When traveling with your pet, a crate in your car can protect both your pet and the driver from being disturbed. The highly publicized accident involving novelist Stephen King was said to be caused by a driver being distracted by a loose dog in his car. Whether you choose a plastic crate or a wire cage, you will be doing both you and your pet a favor when you get him his own 'den.

An old joke about wagging tails goes like this: A young boy is afraid to pet a dog. An adult says, "He's friendly – look, he's even wagging his tail." The boy responds, "Yeah, but he's barking and growling – I don't know which end to believe!"

This poor excuse for a joke contains a lot of truth, because a wagging tail does not necessarily mean a dog is friendly. So, if a wagging tail does not always indicate friendliness, what does it mean?

A dog's tail position and motion is incorporated as a component of a complex system of body language that domestic dogs use, along with "verbal" cues such as barking, growling or whining, in order to communicate. A wagging tail indicates excitement or agitation. But whether the dog means it as an invitation to play, or to warn another dog or person to stay back, depends on other body language.

A slowly wagging tail that curves down and back up into a "U" usually indicates a relaxed, playful dog. If his ears are erect and pointing forward, and he is in the classic "play bow" position, he's inviting you to play.

A tail that is held higher, whether wagging or not, indicates dominance and/or increased interest in something. If the end of the tail arches over the back, and is twitching, you may be faced with an aggressive dog.

Tail position and movement is simply used as a social indicator for other living things. Dogs generally don’t wag their tails when they are alone. For example, if you pour your dog a bowl of food, he may wag his tail excitedly at the prospect of eating. But if he finds the bowl already filled – without anyone being around – he will usually not wag his tail. He may still be happy to eat, but there's no one around with whom to communicate his happiness.

Because the dog's ancestors were pack animals, they needed to develop a way to communicate with each other. They use many different types of body postures and vocalizations as a type of language. The tail is extremely expressive and an important part of the body posture.
A friendly dog will communicate his intentions through loosely wagging his tail. But, a wagging tail does not always indicate friendliness. Dominant or aggressive dogs may wag their tail, but the tail is held high and maybe just the tip of the tail is moving rapidly. A playful dog will also hold his tail high, but it will be wagging greatly from side to side. A dog who holds his tail low and wags it stiffly may be indicating he is submissive or afraid.

The tail is just one part of the dog, also look at his body, head position, ears, eyes, and hackles to help you understand what the dog may be trying to express.

Although most people find it repulsive, it is quite natural for dogs, especially puppies to eat feces. (Feces found in kitty's litter box is an especially favorite treat.) Fresh feces closely resemble the first solid food the puppy ate: warm, semi-solid, semi-digested food that mom regurgitated for her pups to eat.
Often this behavior will just go away when the pup matures. In the mean time, keep the pup's toilet area as clean as possible. Be sure that the puppy is checked for worms and other possible problems such as something lacking in the dog's diet. It is a good idea to have the dog's diet approved by your vet, or switch to a nutritionally complete dog food sold by your vet or pet store.

Many owners have had success in stopping this behavior by supplementing their dog's diet with one spoonful of canned pineapple or a teaspoon of spinach or a dash of MSG. There are products on the market such as 'Forbid' that can also be added to the dog's food to help stop the problem.

If the dog is still fond of feces, try teaching your dog not to touch it using the command 'Off.' Put your dog on leash and walk him by some feces. If he shows any interest in it, tell him, 'No, off.' If he continues to go for it, then loudly scold him, 'OFF!!!' and pull him away from it with a short, sharp tug on the leash. When he stops, praise him. Continue walking and keep returning to different piles of feces over and over, repeating the off procedure until he gets the idea that you disapprove of his dietary interests. Whenever he shows no interest in the feces, be sure to tell him how happy you are through praise and reward.

It is also possible to make the feces unappetizing by sprinkling them with hot sauce, lemon juice or anything the dog finds distasteful. Some dogs like hot sauce and will consider it a garnish, so find out what your dog does not like before using it.

Be sure to clean up your dog's feces immediately after he defecates so as to prevent the problem in the first place. Do not give him the opportunity to indulge himself.