Note: If you're looking for information on your dog's excessive licking of or chewing on herself - paws, tail, etc, then read here about self mutilation.

Before you decide to eliminate your dog's licking, it is important to realize why your dog is doing this. Your dog's licks are his way of telling you that he loves you and that he wants your affection and approval. It is possible that being pushed away after 'kissing' you might make him try harder to lick you, thinking that he didn't deliver his message well enough the first time.

Another reason for licking is that the dog has been unintentionally trained to compulsively lick. He has learned that by licking, he can get almost anything he wants - especially attention from you. Even though you may have tried to discourage him, he's been interpreting your actions as even more fun and attention. Sometimes, it just develops into a habit. Your dog continues licking because he likes it, and he thinks you like it too. It is perfectly normal for dogs to express affection in this manner.

Don't forget the possibility that the dog just likes the taste of your face cream or body lotion or body salts.

Some dogs get carried away with licking when they are in their owner's lap because they are so excited and happy to be there. In such cases, it is best to spend a weekend or several evenings holding the dog on your lap in order to reduce the novelty and excitement of the experience. The dog should be picked up and held until he settles down to doze. During this session, verbal communication should be soft and gentle so the dog doesn't become overly excited. This procedure should be repeated over and over until the dog learns that getting on your lap is not a special event.

If he begins to lick you again, squeal or yelp as if in pain. Your dog will learn to stop licking because he does not wish to hurt you. Applying lemon or hot sauce to your skin will make it taste unpleasant to him and this will also help break him of the habit. (It may not however be good for your skin, so be sure to rinse it off as soon as possible.) If your dog is sometimes rewarded for licking and at other times reprimanded for it, he will almost certainly be confused. So teach your dog to 'kiss' on request and 'no kiss' on request. Only let him lick you if you say it's okay to do so. If you don't want to be licked, then politely request your dog to 'no kiss.' If your dog has been indulging in this behavior for a long time, then it will also take some time for him to learn to stop, so be patient. After all, he is only licking you, not biting you.

If you decide to stop your dog's licking behavior, then be sure that he has another way of expressing his affection. Some dogs like to jump up on the owner in greeting, other like to shake hands or roll over for a tummy rub. Training your dog to do a trick such as 'sit up, shake hands, roll over,' will give him a less sloppy way to ask for attention. When he forgets himself and tries to lick you, you can rechannel his behavior.

Correcting Bad Habits


Even the very best mannered dog will, on occasion, behave in a fashion that is contrary to your wishes. Remember that dogs are intelligent creatures and schnauzers are especially bright and responsive to their human companions. Once you perceive that your dog has developed a negative behavioral trait, it is important that you correct it in a manner that will convey to your pet that what it is doing will not be tolerated by you. You must be consistant in correction, and each time you apply corrective action it must be aimed at the instruction rather than punishment. Even a young dog, if properly socialized, will strive to please its owner.

Housebreaking in an adult dog often involves retraining the dog to only eliminate outdoors. Often, the dog was not properly trained as a puppy in regards to appropriate elimination. Inappropriate elimination is the result of one of three things: marking, attention, or inadequate training. The best advice to solve the problem of inappropriate elimination, is to first analyze what original housebreaking methods were used and if they were comprehensive enough. If you do not feel that the methods were adequate, you will need to start from scratch and either focus on paper training or crate training. Please visit the author's uppyhood page (no longer available) and take a look at the information on housebreaking your puppy. If this is not the case, the behavior is instead most likely a result of marking tendencies or an attention getting behavior. Marking often occurs in unneutered males and can be easily solved by neutering your dog. If you feel that the behavior is a means of getting your attention, I would suggest that you give your dog that undivided attention that they are so intent on getting in undesirable ways. This could involve attending a group dog training or agility class, or setting aside specific time and undivided attention during each day to interact and play with your dog.

In some ways, choosing between male and female dogs is a matter of personal preference. However, there are some characteristics which are common in bitches and other characteristics which are common in male dogs. It is important to evaluate these characteristics and determine which sex would fit in best with your home situation. Additionally, choosing between male and female dogs is important if you already have another bitch or male dog and are choosing an additional dog. This article will list a few characteristics of bitches, a few characteristics of male dogs, and how to choose between male and female dogs when considering a second or third dog.

The following characteristics often apply to bitches

Independent - Bitches tend to want to be in control of the entire situation. They may come to their owner when they are seeking affection but will often move away when they have had enough.


Stubborn - In many packs, a bitch is typically the Alpha. Female dogs crave more control of situations and are quick to respond to perceived challenges with fierceness.
Territorial - Female dogs mark in the same way male dogs do. A spayed female may continue to mark for her entire lifetime regardless of when she is spayed while most males will cease marking behaviors shortly after they are neutered and the testosterone levels subside.
Reserved - Bitches are generally less affectionate and friendly than male dogs. This characteristic is noticeable in puppies and becomes more pronounced with age.


Changes in Mood or Behavior - It is also important to note that if you do not spay your bitch, she will come into heat at approximately one year of age and approximately every six months thereafter. During this time, there will be some bleeding as well as a change in mood or behavior.

The following characteristics often apply to male dogs:

Affectionate - Male dogs are typically more affectionate than bitches. They tend to crave attention from their owners more than bitches and as a result, display more affectionate behaviors.

Exuberant - A male dog is also more likely to be fun-loving and outgoing throughout his lifetime than a bitch. While a bitch tends to become more reserved as she ages, a male dog maintains a more puppy-like exuberance throughout his lifetime.
Food-Motivated - Males are often very motivated by food. This food motivation can make training extremely easy as treats can be used to lure and reward a dog to display desired behaviors.
Attentive - While bitches tend to be more independent, males tend to be more focused on their human companions. They want to always be close to the human and are very eager to please.
Aggressive Behaviors - It is also important to note that intact males may display aggressive behaviors toward other males or exhibit marking behaviors. Additionally, intact males should be kept away from females in heat unless a breeding is planned.

Dog owners who are adding an additional dog to their home should carefully consider the ramifications of adding a dog of either sex. This is important because the makeup of the existing pack may be more accepting to either a male or a female dog. The following are general tips for selecting the gender of a second dog:

If you already have a male or a female, a dog of the opposite sex is generally the best choice. Dogs of the same sex are more likely to fight than dogs of the opposite sex.

If you already have a male dog, he is likely to be more accepting of a female and you are likely to have fewer dominance issues if you add a female to the pack. However, if you opt to add another male to the pack, they can peacefully co-exist and may even become friends. It is important to closely monitor their interactions early on to ensure aggressive behaviors do not become common.
If you already have a female dog, she is likely to be more accepting of a male. Most males tend to be submissive. If he does not challenge your resident female, she is not likely to have a reason to fight with him. Adding a female dog to the pack, however, may result in complications. The worst combination of dogs is two bitches because they are more likely to fight than a male and a female or two males. However, many dog owners have two or more bitches that live together without problems. As long as there is an established Alpha and the other bitches know their place in the pack, there will not be dominance struggles often, although they may still occur.

Selecting a male or female dog is largely a matter of personal preference. The above characteristics are generalizations, and it is certainly possible to purchase or adopt a female puppy who displays male characteristics or a male puppy who displays the typical female characteristics. Additionally, bitches that are spayed and dogs that are neutered often do not have the gender-specific problems associated with their sex such as coming into heat or marking.

Most behaviors of dogs are either the product of instinct, or a learned behavior. Digging behavior is no exception; it is an instinct. In addition, there are certain breeds, Terriers and Dachshunds, for instance, which were bred specifically for their ability to dig out game, such as badgers, foxes, and otters. They have an even greater digging instinct.

Dogs will often dig out of boredom. If you leave your dog out alone in the yard for any length of time, he may dig just for something to do. Play with him out there, or provide him with chew toys or interactive toys like a Kong or Pet Planet rubber toy with treats stuffed inside
Digging is often used as a means of escape. Your dog may want to leave a fenced yard because there are so many more interesting things to do elsewhere.

If you have an intact (unspayed, or unneutered) dog, he or she may be digging to escape in order to mate with another dog. If you do not plan to breed your dog, a good way to prevent digging for this reason is to neuter him or spay her.

Since deeper layers of soil tend to be cooler, your dog may be digging to find relief from the heat. Always provide a cool, shady place for your dog to rest when he is outside.

Dogs are great savers. They will bury bones or other treats 'for a rainy day' when they may need them.

If you use bone or blood meal to fertilize your garden, the scent may be irresistible. A dog may dig and dig trying to find that nonexistent bone.

Any dog may dig to excavate a den. A female dog may dig in order to provide a nest for babies, whether she is pregnant or not.

The trick to stopping any pet's unwanted behavior is understanding it and then manipulating it into a behavior of which we approve. There are obvious things you can do to prevent digging, some of which are mentioned above. Here are other general solutions: Give your dog a place where he is permitted to dig and train him, with praise and treats, to dig in that spot and not in an inappropriate place. A good place is a sandy area, an area that has already been dug up and where the soil is loose, or an area where there is a lot of shade. A sandy area has the added benefit in that, sand is much easier to clean off than dirt.Decide where this place will be, soften the soil, and then bury a favorite treat there. Bring your dog over to the area, say "dig!" and praise him when he uncovers the treat. Repeat until the behavior is learned. If you catch him digging in an inappropriate area, say "no!" and then take him over to the desired area and say "dig," followed by praise if he digs. This training may take several days.

Deter him from digging in inappropriate areas. There are many different ways to do this, including putting pepper, mothballs (not safe with children), citrus or diluted ammonia on the inappropriate area. There are also commercial products such as Keep Off, No-Dig, or Get Off My Garden. These products work by creating a scent in the area which is repugnant to animals, or which interferes with the animal's sense of smell. Some products can be used directly on plants and grass, some cannot. This is probably the easiest of the solutions. This will also work at repelling nuisance animals other than your own.

Digging, although deeply ingrained, can be unlearned. Be consistent and unwavering and you will be able to find a solution.

Inappropriate play behavior has the following necessary and sufficient conditions: play behaviors (eg, play bows, yips, shoulder blocks in dogs; swatting, pouncing, biting in cats) that occur in circumstances that are out-of-context. Such conditions include circumstances in which the behaviors are directed toward inanimate objects, social circumstances in which play is not relevant (challenge), or behaviors that occur in contexts consistent with the solicitation of play but that involve actions that would discourage play (eg, biting, pain).

Wild relatives of the dog often bury their food. They may have killed an animal that is too big to eat all at once, or may have killed several animals when they were very plentiful. Wolves and fox will bury this food to preserve it and hopefully to protect it from being found by another animal who would want to eat it. This is called 'caching' or 'hoarding' their food. Squirrels do the same thing.

Domestic dogs still carry this hoarding trait and will bury a bone or toy in the yard, or even under a blanket as a way of saving and protecting it. Our dogs seldom experience the extreme hunger that would encourage them to find it again, so often, these buried treasures are forgotten.

Stress in an older dog may translate itself into increased barking, whining, or howling. This can occur during separation anxiety, as a means to gain attention (if the dog can not come to you because of decreased mobility, he may be asking you to come to him), or because of cognitive dysfunction.

The cause of the increased vocalization should be identified, if possible, and medication should be given if appropriate. If the dog is vocalizing in order to receive attention, he should be ignored. It may also be helpful to use 'remote correction,' such as throwing a pop can containing a few coins or pebbles toward the dog (not at the dog), which may startle him and stop him from vocalizing. He should not associate you with the correction or he may increase his vocalization just to get your attention. If the increased vocalization is an attention-seeking behavior, review the amount and type of attention you are giving the dog. Maybe you need to set aside some time for you and your dog (on your terms).

Growling is a warning; it's a warning something is not right and it must never be reprimanded or punished in anyway, otherwise the problem remains but the dog learns you dislike him/her growling, so bites instead. If ever a dog growls then the problem of why it is growling must be addressed by a professional, so that problem can be removed and the dog no longer needs to growl or act aggressively. In your instance, the first thing I would do would be to block of the recess in the hallway and move the dogs bed to another, more open location as your dog may well be protective of his sleeping and resting areas. The next step would be to visit a professional so that he/she can look at the dogs behaviour more closely, as this type of behaviour is very often caused by a misunderstanding in the human/canine relationship and needs addressing in order for the problem to be cured. Lastly a good dog training class, using kind, positive methods will help you a great deal so have a look in your area, a dog trainer that operates under the A.P.D.T. (Association Of Pet Dog Trainers) would be ideal.

We spend a lot of time looking at how to train our dogs to do things we would like them to do, but we often ignore the times we accidentally teach them to do just the opposite. A classic example is "guarding" a food bowl.

Since identifying who eats what, where and when is part of establishing the hierarchy in a "pack" (to your dog read "family"), food guarding can be a symptom of much wider problems in the relationship between dogs and their owners. If your dog is inclined to be aggressive in other situations too, you should get expert help before putting any training regime into practice. However, food guarding does occur as an isolated problem, which has actually been taught to the dog by a well-meaning owner with exactly the opposite intention, and in this case it's usually fairly straightforward to cure.

When I started training dogs I found my clients had generally got one of two reactions to this problem. These were "Ah well, you should have stopped that when he was a puppy" or "You're the boss, you'll have to insist." The first of these was hardly constructive and the second has put many a bitten owner into hospital, since methods of "insisting" generally involved removing a meal while the dog was eating. This was based on the theory that if you took food away and then gave it back to him often enough, he would "get used to it". Logically, this sounds as if it should work, they say you can get used to anything in time, and some dogs did tolerate this strange behaviour on the part of their owners quite well. Others got much, much worse.

Look at it from the dog's point of view. How would you feel if the waiter in a restaurant removed your dinner just as you were tucking in, patted you on the head then put the plate back? Surprised? Annoyed? Aggressive? How would you react next time he walked past? Would you eat faster? Glare at him? Grab the plate?

He might get away with it once, but what if he kept on doing it? Would you "get used to it"? Or would you complain? shout? stick the fork in the back of his hand? Actually, you'd probably go to another restaurant but this choice isn't open to your dog. Without that option it is likely that the waiter, far from training you to tolerate his actions, has made you into a food guarder. If you want to get technical the unpleasant experience of having your food removed (negative reinforcement) has increased (reinforced) the possibility that you will act to defend future meals. Why should your dog be any different?

The best cure is to make your closeness to the plate a positive experience for the dog so that he has no reason to be defensive. This can be tricky, especially with a dog whose preferred reward is food - he already has his dinner so what can you do to improve on this? In the restaurant you could get a £5 discount every time you allow the waiter to touch the plate, but this offer is unlikely to get you far with your dog.

This starts in puppy hood, before the dog learns to judge where to aim his teeth and can become a little clumsy with those sharp little teeth, making us pull our hand away when he does so. The effect of pulling our hand away, encourages him/her to start snatching food before it is pulled away and of course this is very common practice with children, as there fingers are more sensitive than that of an adults. So, we firstly have to stop moving our hand away and the best way of doing this is to hold the titbit between our finger and thumb and curl our hand round to make a fist before offering the dog the back of our hand. As the dog goes to snatch the titbit he will bump against the back of the hand and then usually take a step back or hesitate. The moment he does this uncurl your hand and give the titbit on your flat fingers, which will stop him from biting them. He will soon learn to wait until the hand is uncurled and the titbit is presented in this fashion which will have the desired effect of stopping him snatching the food reward. Incidentally, many dogs learn to snatch food from children's hand as they are walking around eating. To prevent this either make sure the children are sitting down to eat, or restrain the puppy until the food has been eaten by the child as it is not good practice to allow. Never tease a dog with food or he will start to lunge for it and could, unintentionally bite, which would not be the dog's fault at all.

Most multi-dog families live happily together throughout their lives. But when it goes wrong, the results are upsetting and miserable for all concerned. Interdog aggression is usually between the same sex and most often between two male dogs. Although less likely between females, when it does occur it is usually much more difficult to stop. This is partially attributable to females having fewer rituals and posturing than male dogs. When female dogs begin to fight, they just go for it!

Interdog aggression usually manifests itself in one of two ways. The most common situation is two dogs or bitches, one older and one younger, which have a good relationship until the younger begins to reach social maturity. This is not to be confused with sexual maturity. Social maturity may occur much later than sexual maturity, not unlike human teenagers! The younger one may start pushing at the status of the older, or the older dog may perceive subtle signals from the younger, and the stability of the relationship will begin to deteriorate.

Many times the younger dog does not actively seek to challenge the more mature dog. The older dog is simply triggered by the normal changes which begin to occur with the maturity of the younger dog.

Another scenario is between two dogs or bitches of similar age and maturity who begin to reach social maturity at the same time and begin to dispute the hierarchical position between the two of them.

In either case, the challenges between the two will usually be over ‘resources’ such as food, toys, thresholds and, most particularly, the attention of the owners.

This is where it is important for the owner to realise that a dog pack (of which the owners are a part) is not a democracy. Trying to treat the dogs the same will not help and may even exacerbate the problem. Trying to settle the matter according to which dog is your favourite will definitely not help unless the favourite is the more dominant of the two dogs. Unfortunately, the subordinate is very often the big eyed, waggy tailed one which is generally more loving and affectionate to family members.

The dominant dog/bitch is usually more competitive and, even though it may not seek your attention as much as the subordinate, it will object to the other dog gaining access to your attention i.e. the higher ranking dog will often appear more “jealous” of your attention. Once you have assessed which dog has the edge, your job is to be supportive of the higher ranking dog in its bid for status. If you attempt to regulate the hierarchy artificially between the dogs i.e. support the “underdog”, you will only make that dogs life miserable. The dominant dog will continue to vie for rank and the aggression will continue. It is not possible for you to always be there to defend the subordinate’s position and the top dog will continue to “pick on” the subordinate over the issues of resources So, what can you do? It will help in general if the owners become more aloof to both dogs until the hierarchy is settled between the two dogs. Do not allow demands to be made on you by either dog If you can assess which dog is gaining the upper hand, your job is to be supportive of that dog. That dog is to be fed first, petted and greeted first, leash put on first, and allowed through thresholds before the subordinate.

Take control of any resources which trigger aggression. All toys are to be put away, feeding should take place separately, and separate sleeping areas should be established. Bedrooms and entrances to “special” rooms are by invitation only. When allocating separate sleeping areas, make sure the top dog gets the “best” place i.e. the sleeping area closest to your own. Take particular control over threshold areas, which are often the trigger for aggression. Make the point that thresholds which are of particular significance to the dogs (probably doors to the outside) are under your control. Both dogs must sit and wait for an invitation to go in or out Remember, that even though you are going to respect the dominant dog’s position over the subordinate dog, it does not mean that either dog has a status over yours! You have a right to say what is allowed and not allowed in your house. Trigger signals such as growling and raising of the hackles should be met with a sharp “Leave it” and separation of the two dogs. Make sure neither dog has your company or attention until everyone calms down. You are in charge here!

Some words of caution. It is never a good idea to involve yourself in a dog fight. Even a dog of the best character may bite indiscriminately when engaged in a fight. If you know your dogs have an aggression problem with each other, it would be best to keep them on a halter type collar and a 6 ft. line while they are in the house. This would allow you to separate the dogs without grabbing at collars. Many times the collar and line has an inhibiting effect on the dogs which, again, is what you need. The real point that needs to be made here is that the human members of the pack must be the highest ranking. The dogs’ status cannot be artificially manipulated and it is your job to keep the status quo between them. I hope this information gives you some helpful insight on the pack system and your place in that system. Humankind has been living with dogs for over 6,000 years and it is only fair that we begin to understand life from their point of view.

Carefully consider your reasons for adding a second dog to the home. A second dog can be a wonderful companion for your original dog but it is unrealistic to expect the two dogs to keep each other entertained. They may enjoy playing together but if you are firmly established as the alpha, they will both still seek out your attention and require a great deal of your time and energy.

It is also important to consider the additional expense of a second dog. The budget for food, toys, treats and medical expenses will all increase with the addition of a second dog.
It is important to fully train your first dog before adopting a second. Trying to train two dogs at once can be quite difficult. However, if your first dog is already trained, he can be helpful in the training of the second dog as the new dog may learn by the examples set by your first dog.
The sex of your second dog is very important. If you already have a male, adding a female to the family will be easiest. Likewise if you have a female, adding a male is a good idea. It is also a good idea to ensure your current dog is spayed or neutered and to adopt or purchase a second dog that is already spayed or neutered. Dogs of the same sex are likely to fight often and problems can be exacerbated if the dogs are intact.
The age of your second dog should also be considered. A younger dog is always a good choice. Dogs of approximately the same age are more likely to fight while adding an older second dog may also result in complications. However, it is also important to consider your dog's temperament. If your resident dog is not tolerant of puppy behaviors and exuberance, it is worthwhile to add a dog that is out of the puppy stage to the family.
Selecting a comparable breed is also important. For example an energetic dog such as a Border Collie should not be added to the family unless the resident dog is also energetic and the family members are willing to spend adequate time exercising the dogs.
Before adding a second dog to your home, it is important to introduce the new dog to your resident dog in a neutral location. This will prevent territorial fighting.
When introducing the dogs in the home, do so carefully on leash at first. Then kennel your resident dog and allow your new dog to explore the house. Next, kennel the new dog and allow the resident dog to explore and pick up the scent of the new dog. This will help to ensure they become acquainted and are more tolerant of each other when they meet off leash.
After adding a new dog to your home, allow a few weeks for the dogs to adjust to each other. During this time, do not leave them together without supervision. When you go out, it is a good idea to kennel one or both of them to prevent fighting when you are not home.

Dogs lick for a number of reasons, some of which are purely biological:


Bitches lick their newborn pups to arouse them from their postpartum daze. In this situation, licking serves to remove clingy membranes from the pup, freeing him up to move and stimulating him to breathe.


Once the birthing and clean-up processes are over, the mom dog’s licking her pups stimulates them to eliminate both urine and feces. It is a couple of weeks before pups will eliminate spontaneously.


Licking also serves another more romantic role in the sense that it is a comfort behavior that assists with pups' bonding to their mom and spurs on their mental development.


From about six weeks of age, some pups lick their mom's lips when they want her to regurgitate food for them. They lick; she vomits; they eat it. This behavior is a vestige of their wild ancestry and was designed to ensure that they profited from the spoils of the hunt.


Licking can also be a signal of submission and so is part of dog’s body language communication system.


Pups and adults lick and groom themselves. It is part of normal survival-oriented behavior. Licking their own lips, limbs, and trunk removes traces of the last meal that would otherwise begin to decompose and smell. Quite apart from the hygienic aspects of this behavior, it also serves to keep dogs relatively odor free and thus olfactorily invisible to their prey. Domestic dogs retain these instincts even though they are not vital today.

Psychology

Dogs, like people, engage in a number of "displacement behaviors" when nervous or stressed, and many of these behaviors involve self-grooming. You only have to glance to the side the next time you are stuck at a red light to see what I mean. The driver next to you will likely be stroking his hair, looking in the mirror, or trying to pick something out from between his teeth.

Dogs do not experience the stop-go conflict of the traffic lights but they do have their own share of dilemmas. Take going to the vet's office, for example. We vets expect our more anxious patients to begin nervously licking their own lips as they enter the clinic. They may even lick or nibble their feet or flank.

There is no doubt that some dogs lick as a gesture of appeasement and goodwill. They may lick their own lips or may lick a person to whom they wish to signal deference. If the recipient of the licking interprets this behavior as "make-up kisses," that’s just fine. Perhaps the behavior is analogous to some forms of human kissing and thus their interpretation may be close to the truth.

However, not all dogs seem penitent when they slurp the faces of people they meet. For some dogs, it seems that they engage in face licking because they can get away with it and because it gets a rise out of the person. When licking is performed for such a reason, it may be component of the “center stage,” attention-demanding behavior of dominant dogs. No lick! is a good command to have working for these guys.

Psychopathology

Some sensitive dogs in stressful environments compulsively groom themselves to the point of self-injury. Licking of this type leads to acral lick dermatitis (a.k.a. lick granuloma). Compulsive licking by dogs is not always self-directed. Some dogs take to licking floors, walls, or furniture. Whatever the outward expression of compulsive licking, the mechanics underlying the disorder are the same. In treatment of this condition, first the underlying anxiety must be addressed though, in some cases, it is also necessary to employ anti-compulsive medication to help break the cycle.

Lovey Dovey?

I don't believe dogs express their sometimes quite profound feelings for their owners by licking or "kissing." In fact, I don't believe dogs really “kiss” at all. Perhaps some dogs are so awed by their owners that they feel the need to signal their ongoing deference by face licking. Call it love, if you will.

One other thing we should always bear in mind is that any behavior can be enhanced learning. Psychologist BF Skinner immortalized the concept that reward increases the likelihood of a response. So it is with licking. If a dog licks his owner's face – perhaps as a vestige of maternal lip licking, perhaps out of anxiety, or just because his owner's face tastes salty – and his behavior is greeted with attention, hugs and (human) kisses, he will likely repeat the behavior in future. In such cases the dog learns just how to push he owners buttons and the owner becomes analogous to a vending machine.

So while face licking may not represent true romantic love, it nevertheless can sometimes be interpreted as some token of a dog's affection or respect … and that's nothing to sniff at.

Firstly you should understand why the dog pulls, it is either Anticipation, this one doesn't pull on the way back from the park! Dominance this one wants to lead the hunt and pulls at all times. Fear puller only pulls on the way back from the park.

However there is also a fourth one and quite often this can be one of the main reasons dogs pull. Dogs like to feel you at the end of the lead, it gives them comfort when they are ahead and can't actually see you. Irrespective of the motive or the reason this technique works for all:


A proper leather or canvas collar, not a thin one but a normal fairly wide one, thin rolled collars bite into the neck, therefore I would not recommend them. Never use a check or choke chain this is a barbaric outdated method of lead control and their is no reason I can think of to use one.

A six foot lead

A Dog. This one is fairly important!


Make sure your dog is always on your left hand side. Hold the lead in your right hand, the best way is to put the loop over your thumb and close the palm of the hand over the loop.

Using your left hand hold the lead between 8 to 20 inches up from the collar, depending on the height of the dog. Step off with your left foot saying "Heel".

When the dog pulls ahead simply feel the tightness very slightly in your left hand then drop the lead out of the same hand.

As the dog gets to end of the lead and it is at full stretch simply turn 180% and go back the way you came giving a slight corrective jerk and release. DO NOT ISSUE ANY COMMAND AT THIS TIME - not giving a command is vitally important for this type of behaviour modification, you want to make the dog think that its own actions are causing the reaction, i.e. he pulls it causes you to turn.

Repeat this till dog starts walking to heel. Normally takes five to ten minutes if you are following the correct technique. Then start praising and treating the dog for the correct position, in other words it is at this time you say Heel and what a good boy heel and then you can treat with goodies such as cheese, dried liver, or puffed jerky. Most people say heel when the dog is out in front or behind, which is teaching the dog the wrong position when you issue the command. If the dog moves sideways or tries to sniff things then say leave it with a gentle jerk and release on the lead.

Now you can start enjoying your walks. You may have to remind him using the same technique over the next few weeks, but I guarantee you will find Walkies so much easier.