You should use a large basin or sink to bathe your cat. Be sure to use a non-slip mat to prevent your cat from slipping and hurting itself. When your cat is secure, gently introduce the water. This is best by use of an extendible shower head. The water should be warm, and avoid spraying the water straight at his face, ears or genitals. Wet the cat all over, talking to and massaging your cat as you go. Next introduce the shampoo, working from the top of the body down and finishing at the face. Cat shampoo will probably not sting the cat's eyes but you should still be careful.

When you are sure your cat is thoroughly covered in shampoo, it is time to start rinsing. Again, start from the top. When you are sure that all shampoo has been removed, switch off the water and squeeze the hair with your hands to remove the excess. Do this before the cat gets out of the bath! Then give your cat a good rub down with an old towel to remove excess dampness. If your cat can tolerate a hairdryer, be sure not to put it too close to the skin. If not, then you will need a couple more towels.

We advise against bathing your cat since it can create unnecessary friction between a cat and its owner. Try finding a professional or, if it is for medical reasons, maybe your vet will be happy to do this for you. If you must bathe your cat, you should groom it first. This is because the shampoo will not get through the whole coat unless you have removed matting first. You should not bath your cat more often than necessary, since shampoos will remove the natural oils that protect your cats skin and hair. When shampooing, you should not use everyday soaps or cleaners. You can get advice about cat shampoos from your vet or from good stockists. Cat shampoos produce less lather, which is very useful if your cat does not like being rinsed! If your cat experiences any skin reaction after bathing, consult your vet about the shampoo you are using - you may need to purchase a medicated shampoo.

Though cat owners may want to depend on a cat to clean herself, there may be a time when you will want to give your cat a bath. The following tips will help you and your cat have a more pleasant experience.

Prior to the bath, you will want to groom your cat. Use a grooming glove, fine-toothed comb, or soft brush for shorthaired breeds and a wide toothed comb and a soft slicker brush for longhaired breeds. Brush your cat thoroughly being especially gentle on the skin because it is thin and sensitive. Also, make sure to brush out any mats you may find - they are much harder to remove from wet hair. This is also a good time to check for sores, abscesses, lumps, and other skin problems. Clean your cat's ears and look for any excess wax or debris in the ears. You will also want to clip your cat's nails at this time. If your cat does not enjoy any of these procedures, wait until your cat has calmed down before starting the bath.

Assemble all the materials you will need before you get the cat. Include a soft towel, soft brush, and shampoos and conditioners formulated especially for cats. If the shampoo is very thick, it is sometimes helpful to dilute it with some water before applying it to the cat. Just prior to the bath, place cotton balls in the ears and apply ophthalmic ointment to protect the eyes. Place a towel in the bottom of the sink or tub you are going to use to prevent slipping. Be sure the area where you give the bath is warm, and your cat will have a warm place to dry off.

Remember that cats do not like to be restrained, so the less it feels like you are controlling her, the better. Speak in soft tones and try to appear calm, since your cat will become more nervous if she senses you are apprehensive. Signs that your cat is anxious include flattening of the ears or whiskers, tail thumping, loud vocalizations, and open mouth panting.

Use lukewarm water. Cats generally dislike sprays, so it is often better to pour water over the cat rather than spraying. If you must spray, avoid hard sprays and spraying near your cat's face. You may want to wrap your cat in a thin towel and wet the coat through the towel, and then apply the shampoo. After shampooing, rinse your cat thoroughly. Rinsing is the most important step. The old adage is: 'Once you think you've rinsed your cat thoroughly, rinse her again.'

Dry your cat gently with a towel. 'Blotting' is better than rubbing, especially in longhaired breeds. Longhaired breeds will also benefit from an additional brush out and a blow dryer on no-heat setting (if your cat will tolerate the noise).

If your cat absolutely cannot tolerate being wet, try using a waterless or powder shampoo, pre-moistened bath towelettes for pets, which have recently become available, or give your cat a 'sponge bath' with a damp towel.

Remember, the younger a cat is when you begin to bathe her, the more likely it will be that she will come to enjoy an occasional bath.

Squeeze excess water from coat. Then, for short-haired pets, use a cotton - or better yet, an absorbent chamois-type towel, to rub the hair vigorously first with the grain, then against, working from head to tail.
Long-haired pets, especially, should be combed out to prevent tangles from occurring while the animal is drying.

Keep pets warm and away from drafts while the hair dries, and do not let your pet outside until hair is completely dry. A damp coat is a magnet for dirt.

For a full, fluffed appearance, blow dry longer-haired cats (with warm air, never hot) while brushing hair against the grain. Direct air flow at the undercoat and work out to the end of the hair. To remove fluffed appearance, finish by brushing hair with the grain.

Bristle Brushes: Bristle brushes can be used on most coat types and vary according to the spacing between bristles and the length of the bristles. In general, the longer the hair coat, the more widely spaced and longer the bristles should be. Also, the coarser the hair, the stiffer those bristles need to be.

Wire-Pin Brushes: Wire-pin brushes, with or without rubber-tipped ends, are the preferred choice for pets with medium to long hair and those with curly or woolly coats, such as the Rex breed.

Slicker Brushes: Slicker brushes have fine wire bristles and are especially useful for removing mats and tangles.

Fine-Toothed Combs: Combs are good for all but wiry coats. They are helpful at moving any small knots of hair. For more severe knots or mats, you need to use a matbreaker

Rubber Curry Brushes: Brushes made from rubber are effective at massaging the skin and removing dead hair. They are excellent to use as a final follow-up to a grooming session.

When brushing or combing, be gentle and take your time. Be especially careful when removing mats or tangles. Brushing can and should be a pleasant experience for your pet as the gentle stroking feels good on your pet's skin. It doesn't take too many painful 'rips' through snarls, however, to make brushing a procedure your pet will try to avoid rather than invite. The best way to build trust and make this a pleasurable bonding time for both of you is to brush your pet often, preferably daily. This prevents problem mats and tangles from developing.

Trimming your cat's nails is not just a part of grooming, but is important for your cat's health as well. It is important to remember that untrimmed nails can cause a variety of problems including broken nails that are painful and can bleed. A good indication that a cat's nails are too long is that her unclipped nails get caught in the carpet, furniture, or your clothing.
How many of us put off trimming our cat's nails until the inevitable veterinary check-up comes around and the veterinarian must do it? If you are like many cat owners, you may be hesitant to trim your cat's nails because you are afraid of cutting the quick of the nail, which may cause pain or bleeding. Once you learn how to do it, clipping your cat's nails is almost as easy as clipping your own.

When you are trimming your cat's nails, you are only cutting away the excess. Recognizing what is excess and where the nerves and blood vessels begin is what you need to know to make nail trimming a painless process for both you and your cat.

Assemble what you will need - a high quality pair of trimmers and some styptic powder, Kwik-Stop, CutStop Styptic Pads or other product to stop bleeding if you nick the quick.You may want to sit on the floor with your cat, hold your cat in your lap, or have someone hold your cat on a table. Hold your cat's paw firmly and push on her pads to extend the nail. Locate where the quick ends. With clear or light nails, it is easy to see the pink color where the quick ends.

Using a nail trimmer for cats, cut the nail below the quick on a 45-degree angle, with the cutting end of the nail clipper toward the end of the nail. You will be cutting off the finer point. In cats, the quick is generally easy to see, and you can cut the excess away with one cut.In some cases, if the nails are brittle, the cut may tend to splinter the nail. In these cases, file the nail in a sweeping motion starting from the back of the nail and following the curve to the tip. Several strokes will remove any burrs and leave the nail smooth.If your cat will tolerate it, do all four feet this way. If she will not, take a break. And do not forget the dewclaws. If not trimmed, dewclaws can grow so long they curl up and grow into the soft tissue, like a painful ingrown toe nail.If you accidentally cut the quick, wipe off the blood and apply Kwik-Stop or styptic powder to stop the bleeding. It is not serious and will heal in a very short time.

Remember, it is better to trim a small amount on a regular basis.Invest in a good pair of nail trimmers in an appropriate size for your pet. They can last a lifetime.Make trimming time fun and not a struggle. Trimming your cat's nails does not have to be a chore or unpleasant. If your cat is not used to having his nails trimmed, start slowly, and gradually work up to simply holding his toes firmly for 15-30 seconds. Do not let him mouth or bite at you. It can take daily handling for a week or more to get some cats used to this. When your cat tolerates having his feet held, clip just one nail, and if he is good, praise him and give him a tiny treat. Wait, and then at another time, do another nail. Continue until all nails have been trimmed. Slowly, you will be able to cut several nails in one sitting, and finally all the nails in one session.

How frequently you groom your cat depends on a number of factors including:
The length of your cat's hair

The ability of the cat to groom herself

The amount your cat is shedding

How much your cat likes it

In general, cats with long hair need much more frequent grooming, often on a daily basis. Cats with short hair can be brushed several times a week.

Cats who are overweight or ill, often have less ability or desire to groom themselves. Older cats who may have arthritis may also tend to groom less. These cats should be groomed on a more frequent basis.

Cats do not shed the same amount of hair all year. At those times when your cat is shedding less, especially if she's a 'shorthair,' you may brush or comb your cat and remove very little hair. Other times, it may seem to come out in buckets. The more a cat is shedding, the more often you need to groom her. This will also greatly decrease her risk of developing hairballs.

Some cats love to be groomed, and this is an excellent way to spend time with your cat. Other cats seem to despise brushes and combs, so they can be groomed on a more 'as needed' basis. When I was a child, we actually had a Siamese cat who loved to be vacuumed! Whenever we started up the vacuum cleaner, we would have to vacuum Boots first, since he layed down right in front of it. After we vacuumed him with the small brush attachment, we were free to do the rest of the house!

1. Attempt to remove the fur mat after the cat has eaten. Cats tend to be more relaxed after meals.

2. Adopt a calm and soothing demeanor as you approach the cat. Have your manicure scissors hidden in your pocket as you pet the cat.

3. Once the cat is relaxed, try to work out the fur mat with your fingers. Pull out the scissors if that doesn't work.

4. Snip down the middle of the fur mat, far from the skin. It's quite easy to snip the skin accidentally on longhaired cats, so work carefully.

5. Slowly work apart the fur mat with your fingers. Snip away a little more if necessary. Reassure the cat in a soothing voice as you snip. If she becomes upset, stop and come back to the task later.

6. Once you've worked apart the fur mat and it's clearly away from the skin, cut it off.

7. Reward the cat's cooperation with a kitty treat.

8. If the cat has several fur mats, remove them at separate times. The cat will quickly lose her patience after you remove the first fur mat. Build trust with a gentle approach and kitty treats to make future encounters easier.

9. Bring the cat to a professional groomer if the cat is unapproachable, if the fur mat is in a delicate area or if the mats are extremely tangled.

10. Purchase a hair-ball treatment at a pet store to help your cat eliminate a troublesome hair ball. Or feed the cat butter or a can of oily sardines.

One of the reasons pet owners avoid grooming is to avoid dealing with mats. As a rule, mats bigger than your thumb need special care. Your pet's skin is very delicate and thinner than yours, so if your pet is severely matted, it may be wise to consult a professional groomer.
Smaller mats can be broken apart with a mat rake or matbreaker. Larger, more involved mats must be cut out with scissors. Be careful. It is easy to cut your pet.

To groom a pet with mats:

First, note where mats are on your pet and brush around them, getting loose and dead hair out of the hair coat.

Using a mat rake or matbreaker, slowly saw through each mat starting at the end of it, slowly working your way deeper into the mat.

Be patient and attentive to your pet's comfort. Do not attempt to pull the mat out by hand.

Some mats look worse than they are, since they may not involve the undercoat. These are easy to fix. Break up the top layer with a matbreaker and comb out the undercoat.

Again, pets with larger mats, mats close to the skin, or mats which cause extreme discomfort should have the mats removed by a professional groomer.

Shedding is a natural phenomenon in cats. When it becomes excessiv learn ways you can help control how much your cat sheds.
Shedding in cats is a natural phenomenon. It will happen if you allow it. Shedding happens for different reasons, mainly depending on whether your cat spends much time outdoors or whether your cat is purely an indoor cat.


Cats that spend most, if not all, of their time outdoors tend to shed beginning in the spring months. You won’t see much if any shedding of your outdoor cat during the winter months, because they naturally will hold on to all their fur to use as thermal protection from the cold conditions. But at the first sign that the days start to lengthen and the sun spends more time out, they’ll start releasing their fur. It’s only natural.



For indoor cats, you may notice that they’ll shed at virtually any time of the year. The shedding of their coats largely depends on lighting conditions, air conditioning levels and the constant temperature control in your home. But typically indoor cats will shed at any point throughout the year.


Cats shed in order to remove dead hair from their bodies. Dead hair can cause skin irritation and thus needs to be gone. If you don’t remove it for them, they’ll release it on their own. This is what disgusts so many indoor cat owners: how do you keep your cats from shedding so much?


The answer is simple--daily brushing. If you have a problem with how much your cat sheds, brush your cat daily--or even twice a day. The more frequently you brush your cat and remove dead and loose hair from their bodies yourself, they won’t shed. If you brush your cat, you have full control over where the fur goes. (And you likely won’t decide to scatter it across your living room.)


When you brush your cat’s fur, get a comb or brush specifically designed for cats. These brushes are designed to pick up the most fur possible, and you can pick one up at your local pet store. You should spend a few minutes, brushing the hair all in the same direction, typically downward, starting with fluid motions from the cat’s neck to its tail. You’ll want to either brush your cat outside, or in a non-carpeted area where you can easily clean up the fur that you’re removing from your cat

Of course they do. All cats with fur [hair], wild and domestic, shed. The only cats that don’t shed fur are the hairless breeds, and they need a special kind of care.


The Rex cats, both the Cornish and the Devon Rex are widely advertised as being non-shedding. Because of their very short and fine fur, their shedding is not usually noticeable, but they do shed. Like most cats, they seem to shed more when they are under pressure or stress.



Even the animals known as “Humans” shed. We lose an average of 150 hairs a day from our head. This is true of every living creature with fur or hair. Nature is constantly replenishing the fur coverings of mammals, so that they can maximize the reason for fur being there in the first place.



The primary reason for fur is body warmth. If an animal doesn’t keep its fur in good order, it would soon lose the ability to keep them warm. This is also why birds preen their feathers. If they didn’t do this, their feathers would become dirty and matted, and be totally useless and it would hinder them flying in search of food. It is why primates groom each other meticulously, especially in inaccessible places..



While there is not much to say about shedding, it is something that many people find frustrating about owning a cat. Indeed, if the shedding your moggie does, bothers you, you are not likely to enjoy owning a cat.

What can you do to take the aggravation out of shedding? The best way is to regularly groom your cat. While they do a good job day to day, it’s a good idea to help them out for a number of reasons. It will reduce the occurrence of hairballs, especially in the longer haired breeds. It will help loosen and rid your cat’s coat of dry skin and dander. It is a wonderful form of interaction for both you and your cat, and can be a wonderful bonding occupation. It also allows you to keep an eye on your cat's coat and skin for potential problems, such as parasites and skin conditions etc. You can combine it with some therapeutic massage for an even more rewarding experience. The thing is, you must get your cat used to this from an early age, or it will slip into the stress mode and make your cat shed more, defeating the whole project.

The most common reason a cat stops using its litter box is because the litter box is dirty - from the cat's viewpoint, not yours. Cats often react to any type of stress by suddenly urinating or defecating outside the litter box. The stress may be caused by a new cat in the neighborhood; children home on vacation; too many cats in the house; your going away on vacation or a new piece of furniture. Urinary tract problems also cause cats to urinate in places other than the litter box. Any sudden change in elimination habits should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Prevent House Soiling
Until your cat is reliably house trained, she should not have free run of your home. If your cat continually makes mistakes, the behavior can simply become a habit. Punishing a cat after the fact teaches her to be afraid of you. Scolding and then taking the cat to her litter box after she has already eliminated teaches her to associate the litter box with punishment. Basically, punishment doesn't work with cats: prevention and praise for getting it right are the keys to training. When you leave the house for any length of time, your cat should be confined to a single room, preferably one with non-porous floors, such as a kitchen, bathroom, utility room, basement or garage. Provide your cat with a bowl of water and a warm place to sleep at one end of the room and a freshly cleaned litter box at the other end. Until the house soiling has been cured, your cat should have a regular feeding schedule so she will develop a corresponding elimination schedule. Read more on how cats learn.

The Litter Box
Your cat does not simply need a litter box - she needs a clean litter box with fresh litter. Your cat will be inhibited from using her litter box if it smells of urine. Think about it from the cat's viewpoint. When she soils your dining room carpet, the area is immediately and thoroughly cleaned. Given the choice between a regularly cleaned place and a litter box that gets changed only once or twice a week, your cat will naturally prefer the carpet.
The litter box must be cleaned daily. The old litter must be discarded and replaced with about 1 1/2 inches of fresh litter. Rinse the litter box thoroughly with water. Adding a little vinegar or lemon juice to the water will help neutralize the odor of the cat's urine. Do not use ammonia; this will make the litter box smell worse.

Make sure that the litter box is in an appropriate place. Cats do not like to soil the areas close to their sleeping or eating areas, so place the litter box some distance away. However, do not place the litter box in an area that is too inaccessible. For example, if the litter box is placed in the bathroom, make sure the door cannot swing shut preventing the cat from getting to it. If the cat is new to your home, she may go into hiding for a few days so place a litter box close to her hiding place.

Some additional factor may be inhibiting your cat from using her litter box, so put down an extra one in a different location. If there is more than one cat in the house, have several litter boxes available.


Housetraining Success: Reward for Using the Litter Box
In order to reward your cat for eliminating in her litter box, you must be there at the time she eliminates. You need to have some idea of when your cat urinates and defecates. Most cats, especially kittens, will eliminate shortly after waking; after eating; and after exercise.
To help you predict when your cat will eliminate, feed her at regular times. If the input is on a regular schedule, the output will follow likewise. Before feeding your cat, spend ten to fifteen minutes playing with her. Then put down the food, allow her fifteen minutes to eat and then clear up any leftovers. After your cat has eaten, it is time for another gentle play session. Call her to her litter box from a variety of places around your house, especially areas where she has soiled. When your cat gets to the box, scratch the litter to get her interested. Similarly, throughout the day, whenever your cat has been asleep for over two hours, wake her up and call her to the litter box. Encourage your cat to hop into the litter box, praise her when she does so. Even if she does not eliminate, she is learning that the litter box is a great, CLEAN place to be. This is especially important for cats that are now avoiding the litter box because they assume it is always dirty or because they associate it with being punished. If your cat does eliminate, praise her in a gentle voice. Once she has finished, gently stroke her, give her a treat and take the time to tell her how pleased you are.

The single most common reason a cat will meow excessively is because she has been trained to do so. Kitty has learned that all she has to do is meow and she gets whatever she wants - food, attention, affection. Often, what starts out as a demand for attention soon becomes a self-reinforcing habit. Now kitty will meow all day just for the fun of it. This situation becomes even worse if the cat is lonely or bored. The first step in breaking this habit is to exercise your cat daily with active play sessions. Don't expect kitty to exercise herself. Many cats will swat at a ping-pong ball or a catnip mouse once or twice then lose interest. You must get involved in the game. Tie a string to the mouse and pull it slowly, temptingly and repeatedly across the floor. Secondly, pay attention to kitty and give her what ever she wants, but ONLY when she is quiet. Ignore her whenever she begins her vocal blackmail. Don't give in. Each time you give in to your cat's verbal demands, you are teaching her to meow even more. If you wait until your cat is quiet, she will soon learn to associate silence with rewards. Some cats enjoy talking and some owners enjoy their cat's chatting to them. But if you want a few moments of peace, you can teach your cat to be quiet on request. Gently ask kitty to "Shush." If the cat ignores you, immediately shout, "BE QUIET!" or squirt her in the face with water once or twice. After a few repetitions, kitty will get the idea and obey the gentle request of "Shush," rather than get screamed at or doused with water.

The first rule of treating this behavior problem is not to make matters worse. One reason your cat is acting this way is because you are allowing him to. Some owners actually get up and play with their cat, thinking he is lonely. Others feed the cat and then wonder why kitty wakes them up in the middle of the night. Basically they have been training and rewarding him to do so. Certainly you should be sensitive to your cat's needs and feelings, but if he is lonely or hungry, then play with him or feed him earlier in the evening.
Day or Night Shift
Nighttime activities are the norm for nocturnal animals such as cats. Given the choice, a cat would sleep all day long and then about eight or nine in the evening, she would get up, stretch, scratch, eliminate and go about the business of being a cat. Cats are most active from middle/late evening to the early hours of the morning. The only thing wrong is that the cat's activity schedule is 180 degrees out of phase with yours. All that needs to be done is to change your cat's working schedule from night-shift to day-shift. This is much easier than it sounds.

You cannot expect your cat to sleep 24 hours a day. He needs to play sometime. If you find his nightly play sessions bothersome, then make sure your cat plays earlier. If you do not provide him with some kind of daytime activity, he will spend the day asleep. Rather than letting your cat snooze all evening while you are watching Oprah or Jeopardy, turn off the tube, get down on the floor and play with your cat. Tie a feather or piece of crumpled paper to a length of string and run around the house dragging it behind. Train your cat to climb his scratching post; train him to fetch and run back and forth between you and a friend. Visit your local pet store and look for new and interesting toys for your cat. Make toys of your own. Most cats have a wonderful time rolling around inside a large, open paper bag or box sprinkled with catnip. The "Cat Dancer" toy is also extremely appealing to most cats. Try to tire out your cat early in the evening. This will greatly increase the likelihood that he will sleep at night.

The more regular you make the cat's new routine, the quicker he will adjust. Schedule feedings and playtime at regular intervals that are appropriate for the schedule you wish your cat to keep.

Patience
Anytime during the day or evening when you see your cat sleeping - wake him up! Gently be a pest just like he is towards you at 3 in the morning. Don't let him sleep. Insist that he play with you now. In 10 days to 2 weeks your cat will sleep all night long because he has been sleep deprived during the day and because he is content that his needs are being filled. It may take 10 days to 2 weeks to reset kitty's internal clock so don't be discouraged that during this time, even though you are doing every thing right, he will still automatically wake up or think he wants to play in the wee hours of the morning. Just wait it out. If you give up too soon, you will have to start all over again.

Sneak Attacks
After you have provided an enjoyable and acceptable outlet for your cats stir crazy periods, it is time to teach him that bothering you by jumping on your face or meowing outside the bedroom door is one big mistake. Each time your cat bothers you, give him a quick squirt with a water sprayer that is kept on the bedside table. Use only plain water in the squirter. After only a couple of squirts, your cat will get the idea. If he is meowing outside the bedroom door, first reach for the water sprayer, quietly get out of bed and creep towards the door, then suddenly fling the door open, squirt the cat and then immediately shut the door. Try to stay alert for five minutes, waiting by the door with the water sprayer ready in case of a second attack.

Some cats actually enjoy being squirted in the face with water. If this is your cat, then obviously it's silly to use a squirt bottle. Try to think of something the cat doesn't like, such as a loud noise or a blast from a canister of compressed air used to dust of camera lenses. Often just the sound of the hissing air sends the cat fleeing. Read how cats learn

Warning - No Cheating
If you think you can use the sneak attack portion of training without providing your cat with an alternative outlet for his activity needs, you're in for a big, unpleasant surprise. Your cat will become frustrated and maybe even angry. You will create a problem far worse than the one that exists. Frustrated, angry cats often urinate all over the house and indulge in destructive behavior. So . . no cheating!

Determining an effective aversive reaction for your cat is definitely a case of trial-and-error, as individual preferences will vary with each cat. This is often the best method to discourage a cat from a particular action or place, but will seldom work effectively without offering an alternative that is both convenient and rewarding.

Texture
You may need to weight the "material" firmly or tape it in order for it to stay put. To protect furniture or floor finish from sticky substances, attach them to a piece of foil or heavy plastic and secure that with weights or light tape.

Indoors Outdoors Both
Shelf paper (sticky side up)
Double-sided carpet tape
Heavy foil
Irregular or sharp rocks, firmly set into dirt
Chicken wire, firmly set into dirt (sharp edges rolled under)
Heavy plastic carpet runner (pointed side up)


Smell
Soak cotton balls, rags or washcloths in the "stinky" substance. To help protect carpets, upholstery, floors or furniture, place the saturated object on a piece of weighted foil or heavy plastic. To prevent the substance from seeping into the ground, use the same precautions. Outdoor substances need to be reapplied daily, due to quicker dissipation into the air.

Insect repellent, especially those containing citronella and/or citrus odors (check for toxicity -- if safe for young children, it's generally safe for pets)
Citric odors -- colognes, concentrated juices or fresh peels
Annoying colognes
Some muscle rubs (NOTE: some cats react to menthol as they do to catnip -- beware!)
Aloe gel
Taste
Some of these substances may damage furniture or floor finishes, so be sure to test them in a hidden location before wide-spread use. Except for hot sauce and cayenne pepper, these substances should be safe to apply to most people's skin, however, some individuals may be sensitive to them.

Bitter Apple or similar sprays and gels marketed specifically for taste aversion
Insect repellents, especially those containing citronella or citrus odors (check for toxicity, if it's safe for young children, it's generally safe for pets)
Some hot sauces
Cayenne pepper
Some muscle rubs
Citric odors (colognes, concentrated juices or fresh peels)
Aloe gel
Surprise!
Remote Controlled Aversives:
Motion detector that reacts with a startling sound
Snappy Trainer (upside-down mouse trap that's securely taped under paper to avoid contact)
Aluminum pie plate containing water, beans or pebbles -- preferably balanced precariously on a counter or other undesirable "jumping" surface
Scat Mat (very slight electrical shock)
Human Controlled Aversives
Use these to get your cat's attention, and thereby offer an appropriate alternative.

Spray bottle or squirt gun filled with water or a combination of water and vinegar (NOTE: avoid the super-duper water guns that have a very forceful spray)
Loud air horn
Whistle
Shaker can (soda can containing nails, pennies, beans or pebbles - securely taped shut)
WARNING: For fearful cats, try everything else before trying surprise techniques, especially those using noises!

If your cat is scratching your furniture, shredding and destroying your home, you need to realize that your cat needs to scratch and climb. Scratching conditions your cat's claws by removing the old layers of the nails. Scratching and climbing are highly enjoyable feline activities and are part of the essence of being a cat. Since your cat will want and need to scratch, provide her with a variety of scratching posts and teach her to use them. Until your cat can be trusted not to scratch and claw your furniture, she should not be allowed free run of your house when you are not there to supervise her. If your cat has a single favorite scratching site, this may be temporarily protected by covering it with some netting or loosely woven fabric. Cats do not like to snag their claws.
As a temporary measure you can confine your cat to an area where she cannot get into trouble. Confinement is not the answer to the problem, but it can be used to help train your cat to use a post when you are not home to actively train her. The confinement area should be well stocked with a variety of scratching and climbing posts. Since your cat will have no other choice of things to scratch, she will learn to scratch and climb her posts.

You can buy scratching posts at your pet store or you can build one yourself. Rough hewn 4x4's set vertically with a few horizontal resting platforms are ideal. Whether buying carpet to cover a home made post or purchasing the finished item, remember to take along a comb to check that there are no loops in the carpeting which will snag the cat's claws. You can also attach the carpeting underside-up, as the backing has a rough texture that cats enjoy.

Whether you are trying to prevent or cure a scratching problem, the single most important thing you can do is praise and reward your cat for scratching and climbing her post. Simply plonking down a few posts in front of your cat is not enough. You must specifically train her to scratch these items and these items alone. Read about how cats learn

If your cat is not interested in them, it's up to you to show her how fun they can be. Put her favorite food treats on some of the platforms. Attach toys so they dangle down enticingly. Rub the post down with catnip. Most cats scratch immediately after waking while performing stretching exercises. As soon as your cat wakes up from a nap, call her to her post. Scratch the post at a point a couple of feet off the ground. Most cats reach up and stretch with their front paws on the post. Praise your cat profusely, especially if she makes scratching motions.

Don't try to physically force your cat to scratch by holding her paws. She will resist and even dislike the post. The most effective method of teaching your cat to use her post is through lures and rewards. Always be on the alert to lavish your cat with praise, affection, attention and even a treat anytime she scratches or climbs her post without your encouragement. Never take this for granted.

Train your cat to scratch her post on command. Stand by the post with a treat in hand. Say, "Kitty scratch," "Kitty climb," or some other suitable request. Give your cat the treat when she comes running. If she is not interested, wait until dinner time and try again. Once your cat shows interest, hold the treat higher and higher up until she has to climb the post to get it. Place a treat on the highest platform and give her the request to "Climb." In time she will learn to climb her post on command for treats, affection, attention and play time.

Once your cat understands that scratching and climbing her post is fun, rewarding and gains your enthusiastic approval, it is time to teach her not to scratch the drapes or furniture. If you catch her clawing at anything other than her post, immediately startle her with either a blast of water from a plant sprayer or a sudden loud noise. She will soon realize that unpleasant things happen when she tries to scratch the furniture, and she will remember how wonderful it is to scratch her post.

Can you teach a cat tricks?

In a word, yes! A "trick" can be any simple task that would come naturally to the cat (or dog, rabbit, parrot, even goldfish). Some examples for cats are sitting down, jumping through a low hoop, and retrieving a thrown toy. Although some cats admittedly are more willing to learn than others, your efforts can be rewarded (with some fun activities for both of you). If the "trick" itself involves fun or food, it can be self-rewarding.

What treats capture your cat's interests? Consider commercial treats, tuna, olives, popcorn, catnip, or anything for which your cat will "work." Once you have a reward in hand, the key, as with training any species, is patience. Does your cat naturally retrieve crumpled balls of paper? Have a treat ready the next time she brings one back to you. Does she naturally attempt to eat a piece of food held out to her? Place a small hoop between her and the food, and immediately reward her for stepping through. As long as reinforcement is consistent and well-timed (immediately following the desired behavior), you'll soon find yourself with a happily compliant performer.

Important Starting Notes

Keep the training sessions short. You want your cat to enjoy his training, not to be bored or annoyed by it.

Always precede a command with your cat's name. We'll use the name Scooter .- i.e."Scooter, down.”

Always hit the clicker at the exact moment your cat is performing the desired behavior. Even the slightest mistiming could reinforce the wrong behavior.

Always give your cat his food reward immediately after you give your signal noise. This way, he knows the signal means a reward.

Remember that you are trying to reinforce the spoken command. And after your cat has performed the behavior correctly and is rewarded, continue repeating the command in a positive way- i.e. “Sit, good sit. “

Make sure your cat succeeds. If your cat isn’t succeeding with the desired behavior, you’re progressing to quickly. Go back to the previous training until you and your cat understand each other. Cats need the positive reinforcement that comes with success.

Teach your cat only one new behavior at a time. You can reinforce tricks your cat has mastered, but do not confuse him by teaching him more than one new behavior at a time.

We recommend using a spoon to hold the food reward when training your cat. This way you can reward the cat from the spoon without constantly bending over. The spoon also comes in handy for tricks where you hold the food over or in front of the cat.

Come On Command

Once your cat comes to his feeding area at the sound of the clicker, this trick is an easy step. It’s like a game of hide and seek for you and your cat. The goal is for your cat to come to you in any location when you give the command “come” and hit the clicker. Eventually, your cat should come to you on just the spoken command, with you hitting the clicker as his signal that he has done correctly.

What You’ll Need:


Your cat at mealtime.

Quiet room where the cat is comfortable.

A specific command and gesture - in this case, the word "come" preceded by your cat's name- i.e. "Scooter, come.”

Your signal (buzzer, clicker).

The reward (his favorite food, special treats, etc).


Training Steps

1. Make sure the cat is within hearing distance.
2. Clearly give the command "Scooter, come" then hit the clicker two or three times.
3. When the cat comes to you, hit the clicker again and say "come, good come" in a praising way. Immediately give him his food reward.
4. Move to a new location and repeat this pattern.
5. Eventually, your cat should come to the command "come." Then you will hit the clicker just as a reward signal when your cat gets to you. After you hit the clicker, immediately give him his food reward.

Sit

This command is a foundation for many other ticks and behaviors. Your goal is to have your cat sit down when you give the command "sit".

What You'll Need :


Your cat before mealtime.

A quiet area where the cat is comfortable.

A specific command and gesture - in this case, the word "sit" preceded by your cat's name i.e. "Scooter, sit".

Your signal (buzzer, clicker) .

The reward (his favorite food, special treats, etc.)

A spoon to hold the reward.


Training Steps

1. Gently put the cat on the table at the edge closest to you and pet him so he is comfortable.
2. Give the command "Scooter, sit" while moving the spoon with his food reward over his head.
3. As he tips his head back following the food, he will sit to keep his balance. When he sits, hit the clicker and say "sit, good sit”. Immediately give him his food reward.
4. Eventually you should repeat this pattern until your cat responds to the command "sit" without having to move the food over his head.
5. Once your cat has learned this behavior, you no longer need to place the cat on the table to sit.

Note: In the beginning, if your cat does not sit on his own, you can gently press down on his hindquarters. Then hit the clicker and say "sit, good sit”. This will be easy with some cats others may resist being helped into sitting. Be gentle and patient. Remember not to frustrate or frighten your cat. If he resists, try again another time. It's always better to have him sit on his own.

Sit Up

Sitting up, like a dog's "beg," is one of the simplest behaviors to teach your cat. Cats often assume this position naturally. Your goal is to have cat sit up on his haunches when you give the command "sit up" while you hold the food reward above him - and eventually on the command alone.

What You'll Need :


Your cat before mealtime.

A specific command and gesture - in this case, the word "sit up" preceded by your cat's name i.e. "Scooter, sit up.”

The reward (his favorite food, special treats, etc.).

A spoon to hold the reward.


Training steps

1. Gently sit the cat on the table at the edge closest to you and pet him so he is comfortable.
2. Give the command "Scooter, sit up" while holding the spoon with the food directly above the cat (but not close enough where he can grab it).
3. When he stands on his hind legs or haunches and reaches for the food in the manner you want him to, hit the clicker and say "up, good sit up." Immediately give him his food reward.
4. Eventually you cat should respond to the command "sit up" without the food held above him.
5. Once your cat has learned this behavior, you no longer need to place the cat on a table to do a sit up.

Note: If your cat stands on his back legs verses sitting on his haunches, slowly move the food back over his head. To keep from tipping over, he will sit down on his haunches. Remember to hit your signal when he is in the position you want.

Laying Down

Teaching your cat to lay down on command is another "table top" trick. Your goal is to have your cat lay down on the command "down."

What You'll Need:


Your cat before mealtime.

A quiet area where the cat is comfortable.

A table for the cat.

A specific command and gesture - in this case, the word "down" preceded by your cat's name.

Your signal (buzzer, clicker).

The reward (his favorite food, special treats, etc.).


Training Steps

1. Gently sit the cat on the table at the edge closest to you and pet him so he is comfortable.
2. Give the command "Scooter, down" while holding the food reward in one hand slightly below and in front of the table (but not close enough where he can grab it).
3. When the cat lowers* for the food into a laying position, hit the clicker and say "down, good down." Immediately give him his food reward.
4. Eventually your cat should respond to the command "down" and your downward gesturing hand without the food being held below the table's edge.
5. Once your cat has learned this behavior consistently, you no longer need to place the cat on a table.

*Note: Like in sit, in the beginning, you might have to gently help your cat into position for this trick. Be gentle and patient. Remember not to frustrate or frighten your cat. If he resists, try again another time.

Touching a Prop

This behavior is fun to teach your cat because it is easy and can be used in a variety of ways. The goal is for your cat to touch a prop object with his front paw when you give the command "foot" or "paw”. You should only teach this trick when your cat has accomplished a consistent sit on command.

What You'll Need:


Your cat before mealtime

A table for the cat.

An object for the cat to touch that is sturdy and will not fall over when the cat touches it (like a small toy or a stack of books).

A specific command and gesture - the word "foot" or "paw" proceeded by your cat's name. *

Your signal (buzzer, clicker).

The reward (his favorite food, special treats, etc.).


Training Steps

1. Instruct your cat to sit on the table following the instructions provided under "sit."
2. Place the object at the edge if the table between you and the cat.
3. Hold the food reward directly in front of your cat so the object is between the cat and the food.
4. Give the command "Scooter, foot (paw)" while tapping the object with your other hand.
5. As he reaches for the food, if he touches or steps on the object, hit the clicker and say "foot (paw), good foot (paw)." Immediately give him his food reward.
6. If he isn't touching the object, try slightly waving the food reward so he is apt to bat at it. Again if his foot touches the object hit the clicker and reward him.
7. Eventually your cat should respond to the command "foot (paw)" and your tapping the object.
8. Once your cat has learned this behavior consistently, you no longer need to place the cat on a table.

*Note: You may want to try using a different command for each front paw, such as "foot" for his right paw and "paw" for his left paw. You can then train your cat to use a specific paw to touch an object.

Walking On A Leash

Responsible cat owners will find this behavior has important safety benefits. With the dangers of dogs, disease, cars and unwanted litters, having your cat on leash when outdoors is a good way to ensure he has many happy, healthy years.

Leash training a cat is very similar to leash training a puppy. It takes time and patience. The difference is, when people are leash training a struggling, pulling puppy, they persist with patience. They know eventually the puppy will learn.

With a cat, as soon as he objects, the owner gives up. Well, don't give up. Your cat can get used to a leash just as well as your dog. Your goal is to be able to take your cat outdoors on a leash and walk short distances using the command "heel."

What You'll Need :


Your cat before mealtime.

A harness (not a collar) and a short leash.

A specific command and gesture - the word "heel" preceded by your cat's name.

Your signal (buzzer, clicker).

The reward (his favorite food, special treats, etc.).

A spoon to hold the reward. (You may also want to tape the spoon to a stick or wooden dowel so you won't have to bend over.)


Training Steps

1. Spend a week or two getting the cat used to the harness. Put it on him when you feed him so he develops a positive "association" with his harness. Remember to click the clicker while the cat is eating with the harness on.
2. After your cat is comfortable with the harness, you may attach the leash. Be sure to start the leash training inside your home so your cat feels safe and secure.
3. Put the cat down at your side and hold onto the leash.
4. Give the command "Scooter, heel" while you slowly move forward holding a piece of food in front of the cat.
5. When he takes a step or two forward toward the food, hit the clicker and say "heel, good heel." Immediately give him his food reward.
6. Repeat this pattern, each time taking a step or two more until your cat responds to the command "heel" and moves forward as you do.
7. Do not take this trick outdoors until your cat is very comfortable with the harness and leash. When you do go outdoors, take it slow - let him explore the area in front of your home at first before venturing out into the neighborhood.

Note: Although cats can be leashed trained just like dogs, they will not "trot around the block" like dogs. When you walk with your cat outdoors, he may stop frequently and examine the world around him. Over time, he will come to enjoy his leash and harness.