Rambunctious behavior

If your cat is attacking you, your furniture, phantom spirits and invisible mice; if he's bouncing off the walls and ceiling; knocking things off counter tops; stealing; carrying around or hiding the most unusual objects; don't worry, your cat is quite normal. Much of this obnoxious behavior is caused by his acting out play and predatory behavior. If these events occur in the middle of the night or in the wee hours of the morning, don't forget that cats are nocturnal animals. It's normal for their activity level to peak late at night or early in the morning.
This frequently happens with lonely, bored cats that have an excess of energy and no where for that energy to go. They cannot chase real mice and birds, or climb real trees, so they develop other habits to entertain themselves.

Many of these problems can be prevented or cured by providing games, exercise and entertainment for your kitty. Get on the floor and play with your cat. Don't just toss her a toy and expect her to play by herself. Tie a toy to the end of a string, toss it down the hall and reel it in, or slowly drag it across the floor. This gives kitty a moving target to chase and attack. Put a bird feeder outside a window so your cat can watch hummingbirds dive-bomb the fuchsia bush.

Sometimes kitten behavior, such as suckling and kneading, continues into adulthood. Provide your cat with something safe of his own towards which he can direct this behavior. If the cat decides to use you or your clothing for this activity, simply let him know you disapprove. A sudden, sharp shout or loud noise is usually sufficient. Remember to frequently encourage kitty to indulge himself with his own special suckling/kneading pillow, blanket or toy. Often a cat's misbehavior is actually reinforced by your unintentional rewards. The cat suddenly runs up, nips you on the ankle and runs off. You scream and chase him. Although you think you are reprimanding the cat, he probably thinks this is a fun game. Cats can also become pests, demanding attention and affection because when they come over to bug you, you give them what they want - food, attention or affection. Read more about how cats learn.

Provide your cat with acceptable ways to expend this energy and act out her predatory behavior. If it's the cat nocturnal activities that annoy you, then train your cat to shift her active phase to earlier in the evening. If you do not provide the cat with some kind of daytime activity, she will spend the day asleep. Instead of letting kitty doze all evening while you are watching television, turn off the tube and play with your cat. If you tire her out early in the evening, chances are more likely that she will sleep all night. If kitty still insists on playing at night, provide her with activities that will not disturb you. Provide your cat with plenty of soft toys.

Cats will also caterwaul, display frenzied behavior and spray urine for another reason. Your female cat may be in heat. Your unneutered male cat may be responding to neighborhood female cats in heat. The solution: get your cat spayed or neutered. Also read about vocal blackmail.

Spaying is a surgical procedure that entails the removal of the ovaries and uterus. Because of the cat's unique sexual physiology, they usually become pregnant each time they mate. Many cats get pregnant without their owner even realizing that they have been in heat to begin with. In fact, some cats come into heat and get pregnant on the same night!

In addition, spaying removes the annoying behaviors that are characteristic of being in heat. If the female cat is prevented from mating, she will not ovulate. Consequently, the heat period may wax and wane for several weeks. During this time, she will often go off her food and become hyperactive. She may stop using her litterbox. In the evenings, she will caterwaul for males. A number of males will attempt to respond to this open invitation by replying in person. A courting tomcat will serenade kitty all night long, pausing only to spray urine everywhere and fight with other toms. Meanwhile, the confined female will generally work herself into a frenzy.

Your cat should be spayed as soon as she is six months old. She does not need to go through one heat period. She should be spayed before her first heat. You and your cat will be much happier if you spare her the frustration and nuisance of going through a heat period.

A spayed cat will tend to eat a little more and be slightly less active. However, this is no reason for the cat to become fat and lazy. Remember, you're in control of the food. If your cat becomes overweight it is because she is fed too much and no one bothers to exercise or play with her.

Castration is a simple surgical procedure that entails the removal of the cat's testes. Castration eliminates the possibility of testicular cancer and reduces the likelihood of prostatic and other reproductive problems.

Following castration, there is a rapid decline in the incidence of roaming, aggression, fighting and spraying in most cats. The earlier the cat is castrated, the more likely these behaviors will be eliminated. If you wait too long, sometimes, these behaviors will have already become ingrained as habits.

Another reason to spay or neuter your cat is because you love animals. Don't forget that every year millions of kittens and puppies in this country are put to death because no one wants them. Until homes are found for every one of these millions of unwanted pets, no more kittens should be born. It is as simple as that. The single biggest contribution you can make towards ending this tragic pet overpopulation problem is to have your own cat spayed or neutered

You can normally castrate a male cat at any age. There really is no difference in whether you castrate a cat at a year old or at 10 years old--it’s a matter of the preference of its owner.


Few veterinarians, however, will castrate male cats that aren’t at least six months old. You want to make sure your cat is fully developed sexually before you remove any vital organs. This usually isn’t accomplished until the cat reaches six or seven months of age.


You should, of course, think long and hard before making the decision to neuter. If your male cat has an impeccable personality and demeanor, you may want to continue its family line. Also, if you want to breed for show and you believe you have a winner, you may want to allow your male cat to breed so you can have a champion for generations. Keep in mind that you can neuter a male cat at any age once it matures. So there’s no rush, unless you just can’t wait for him to calm down a bit.


Neutering your cat keeps your cat from spraying. This is the greatest reason for having castration done. Once you neuter your cat, you’ll notice that the strong stench of male cat urine won’t be as strong and noticeable. And it won’t happen as often. Neutering also keeps your cat out of cat fights, for the most part. A neutered cat won’t focus as much on its relationship with other cats, but will look more closely at its human interaction. This will cause your cat to be even more lovable and sweet than ever.


Neutering your male cat is fairly easy. A vet typically brings in your pet in the morning, conducts the operation immediately after inducing it with anesthesia, and you take your cat home that night or the next morning (whenever it wakes up). It generally doesn’t feel a thing.


When you have your cat castrated, you’ll notice that your cat may gain some weight. Your vet may recommend that you give your male cat hormone medicine in order to speed its metabolism and keep it more healthy. Male cats, after being castrated, generally won’t be as aggressive toward other animals and will be a much more friendly cat toward you.

You must provide objects for scratching that are appealing, attractive, and convenient from your cat's point of view. Start by observing the physical features of the objects your cat is scratching. The answers to the following questions will help you understand your cat's scratching preferences:

Where are they located? Prominent objects, objects close to sleeping areas, and objects near the entrance to a room are often chosen.
What texture do they have—are they soft or coarse?
What shape do they have—are they horizontal or vertical?
How tall are they? At what height does your cat scratch?

Now, considering your cat's demonstrated preferences, substitute similar objects for her to scratch (rope-wrapped posts, corrugated cardboard, or even a log). Place the acceptable object(s) near the inappropriate object(s) that she's already using. Make sure the objects are stable and won't fall over or move around when she uses them.

Cover the inappropriate objects with something your cat will find unappealing, such as double-sided sticky tape, aluminum foil, sheets of sandpaper, or a plastic carpet runner with the pointy side up. Or you may give the objects an aversive odor by attaching cotton balls containing perfume, a muscle rub, or other safe yet unpleasant substance. Be careful with odors, though, because you don't want the nearby acceptable objects to also smell unpleasant.

When your cat is consistently using the appropriate object, it can be moved very gradually (no more than three inches each day) to a location more suitable to you. It's best, however, to keep the appropriate scratching objects as close to your cat's preferred scratching locations as possible.

Don't remove the unappealing coverings or odors from the inappropriate objects until your cat is consistently using the appropriate objects in their permanent locations for several weeks, or even a month. They should then be removed gradually, not all at once.
Should I Punish My Cat for Scratching?

No! Punishment is effective only if you catch your cat in the act of scratching unacceptable objects and have provided her with acceptable scratching objects. Punishment after the fact won't change the behavior, may cause her to be afraid of you or the environment, and may elicit defensive aggression. Used by itself, punishment won't resolve scratching problems because it doesn't teach your cat where to scratch instead. If you do catch your cat in the act of scratching inappropriate objects, punish her in a way that prevents her from associating the punishment with you. Try making a loud noise (using a whistle, shaking a soda can filled with rocks, or slapping the wall) or using a water-filled squirt bottle. If you use other, more interactive techniques, she'll learn to refrain from scratching in your presence but will continue to scratch when you're not around.

How Do I Trim My Cat's Claws?

To help keep them sharp, cats keep their claws retracted until they're needed. As the claws grow too long and become curved, they can't be retracted completely. You should clip off the sharp tips of your cat's claws on her front feet every two weeks or so. Clipping your cat's claws will also help prevent them from becoming snagged in carpets and fabrics, not to mention your skin!

Before trimming your cat's claws, help her get accustomed to having her paws handled and squeezed. You can do this by gently petting her legs and paws while giving her a treat. This will help to make it a more pleasant experience. Gradually increase the pressure so that petting becomes gentle squeezing, as you'll need to do this to extend the claw. Continue with the treats until your cat tolerates this kind of touching and restraint. It may take a little longer if she's not used to having her legs or paws handled.

Apply a small amount of pressure to her paw—with your thumb on top of her paw and your index finger underneath—until a claw is extended. You should be able to see the pink or "quick," which is a small blood vessel. Don't cut into this pink portion, as it will bleed and be painful for your cat. If you cut off just the sharp tip of the claw, the "hook," it will dull the claw and prevent extensive damage to household objects and to your skin.

There are several types of claw trimmers designed especially for pets. These are better than your own nail clipper because they won't crush the claw. Until you and your cat have become accustomed to the routine, one claw or foot a day is enough of a challenge. Don't push to do all of them at once, or you'll both have only negative memories of claw clippers!

Should I Declaw My Cat?

Declawing is a procedure whereby a veterinarian amputates the end digit and claw of a cat's paws—similar in scope to cutting off a person's finger at the last joint. The Humane Society of the United States opposes declawing when done solely for the convenience of the owner. Scratching is a natural behavior for cats and can be directed to appropriate items.

However, if you feel that you must either declaw your cat or give her up, we would rather see your cat stay in her home and be your lifelong companion. If you do decide to have your cat declawed, we suggest that you have the surgery done at the same time she's spayed (or neutered, if your cat is a male). Never have rear paws declawed, and be sure to always keep your cat indoors; without claws to defend herself or climb to escape, your cat is in much greater danger outdoors—and the great outdoors is a very unsafe place for cats to begin with.

Repellents and devices designed to startle the cat "in the act" will work best to condition him to avoid the area. Never use poisons. Not only is poisoning animals inhumane and illegal, it's not an effective solution to the problem. Poisons will only rid you of one "pest" and won't deter any others. You'd have no way of knowing or controlling who might find and ingest the poisonous substance.

Check with any pet supply store or garden supplier for commercial cat repellents. There are a variety of natural oils (available at health food stores) that some people claim have worked in deterring cats from their property including eucalyptus, citrus oils and lavender.

Keep in mind that the effectiveness of any repellent will deteriorate with moisture and/or time. Whether you use an aromatic oil or a commercial mixture, you'll need to re-apply the solution after each rain, heavy dew, or watering. Check with your garden supplier to be certain that the solution you choose won't harm plants growing in that area, especially if you use fertilizers or other soil additives.

For areas where cats want to dig, ornamental pebbles may be an effective deterrent. Avoid pebbles that are very round or smooth, as they make a great cat bed. Rocks or pebbles should be placed in a way that makes it difficult for them to be dispersed. Small-gauge chicken wire can also be buried under a light layer of dirt or mulch, and may even restrain some weeds. The sharp pebbles and/or rough wire will be uncomfortable to soft paws.

"Surprise" Devices

To teach a cat to avoid a specific area, you must make that area unattractive to him. The best method is to surprise the cat "in the act" but without the cat knowing that you are the one administering the surprise. Simple devices can be used to effectively "booby-trap" the area that a cat has found attractive.


Sound and Movement: Scatter dry beans, macaroni, or birdseed on a metal tray; disposable pie pans or cookie sheets work well and are inexpensive. Balance several trays along the fence, porch or deck railing, the windowsill, or around the edge of any vehicle where the cat jumps onto the surface. Birds can still land safely if the trays are balanced properly, but the weight of a cat leaping onto the surface will upset the tray. The cat will be startled by the noise and by the unsteady, collapsing perch. As a variation on this "falling tray" method, set shallow plastic lids filled with water on each end of the tray to add a shower to the noise and movement of the falling tray.

Texture: To keep a cat from jumping onto flat surfaces (railings, vehicles, or decks), criss-cross double-sided tape onto a piece of sturdy plastic—either a heavy, plastic drop cloth or a vinyl tablecloth would work well. Drape the plastic over the surface, and secure it with cord, or at least one weighted object, to keep it in position. The sticky tape is annoying to the cat (without causing pain or panic), and the slick plastic not only rattles but also offers no foothold. An alternative to sticky tape would be to use a plastic carpet protector with the knobby side up.

Water: This method works especially well for those areas where birds feed on the ground or where cats are using a garden area as a litter box. When the temperature permits, turn on a water sprinkler during the usual time of disturbance (which may be dawn or dusk if the cat is on your property to hunt). A timing device for the sprinkler, set to a staggered schedule, will help discourage those intelligent cats who would otherwise simply avoid the area at "regularly wet" times of day.

Obstacle: If your bird feeder or birdhouse is mounted on a post, nail a galvanized metal guard in the shape of an inverted cone to the post to protect the platform.
Responsibility

If these suggested remedies fail to provide relief, your next step is to establish who cares for the cat. In many cases, the "problem cat" may be an owned cat who is allowed to roam, or the cat may have no real owner. If the cat belongs to a neighbor, your problem is a shared one. It's not always easy to discuss neighborhood issues diplomatically. Remember that the cat is your neighbor's pet, even though he's a nuisance when he's on your property. By emphasizing your concern for the cat's safety, instead of the problems he's causing, you have a greater chance of gaining your neighbor's cooperation.

If you're unable to determine who owns the cat, the problem is in your hands. In some cases it may be difficult to distinguish a feral (semi-wild) cat from a potentially friendly stray, so unless the cat comes to you fairly readily when you squat down nearby and gently call to him, play it safe and don't touch the cat (if you are able to get close enough in the first place). Even some well-socialized cats despise being picked up by strangers. Assuming you've already tried the re-conditioning tactics mentioned above without success, you may need to resort to a humane trap.

Humane Traps

Don't use anything other than a humane cage trap designed to lure a cat into the cage with food, and to safely contain him until he can be moved to another area. Most animal control agencies and humane societies loan or rent out these traps and some will even deliver and/or pick them up. Be sure to find out how to set and bait the trap, how to cover the trap, and how often to check the trap.

If you have any reason to believe that the cat has an owner, please think twice before trapping the cat, unless you plan to return him to his owner.

To trap a stray cat, bait the trap with canned cat food. Place the trap in an area that's sheltered, as much as possible, against the weather. Although you may hear some alarming noises when the cat realizes he's trapped, he's only scared, not hurt. If the cat is confined with no access to water or shelter from inclement weather or predators, it's important that you remove the trap from the area immediately. Using gloves to prevent scratches or bites, put the trap in a protected area until you can take the cat to an animal shelter (which should be as soon as possible). Please don't release a stray cat. This will only cause further overpopulation problems and, inevitably, a painful life and death for the cat.

Many owned cats, unfortunately, don't wear collars with identification. An owned cat who is lost may behave fearfully. If the cat is unknown to you, take him to your local animal shelter. He will be cared for there and his owners will have a better chance of reclaiming him. If he is not reclaimed, but of good health and temperament, the shelter will try to find him a new, loving home, at which time you may be able to take the cat yourself if you wish. That way, you can keep him safely confined in your home, where he belongs, with you.

Each cat has his preferred way of dealing with a crisis. You'll notice that your cat probably tends to try one option first, and if that doesn't work, she's forced to try a different option. For instance, if your cat is afraid of dogs and a friend brings his dog to your home to visit, your cat puffs out her fur to make herself look big, then hisses and spits at the dog. If the dog doesn't retreat, your cat may flee the situation, find a hiding spot, and freeze until she deems the situation safe.
Although some fearful behaviors are acceptable, overly anxious or fearful cats may need a little help from you in the form of training, patience, and love. Here's some guidance on how to handle these situations.

Your cat may show the following behaviors when she is fearful:


Fleeing

Hiding

Aggression (which includes spitting, hissing, growling, swatting, biting, scratching, puffing fur and tail, arching back, swishing tail, and flattening ears)

Loss of control over bladder and/or bowels

Freezing in place
It's normal for you to want to help and comfort your cat when she's frightened. However, that isn't necessarily the best thing to do from your cat's point of view. It's normal for a cat to feel insecure or frightened in a new environment. Often, your new cat will hide for a day or two when you first bring her home. Sometimes a traumatic experience—such as taking her for a car ride to the veterinarian or introducing a new animal into the home—can disrupt her routine and send her under the bed for a few days.

What Causes Fearful Behavior?

You'll need to closely observe your cat to determine the trigger for her fearful behavior. Keep in mind that just because you know that the person or animal approaching your cat has good intentions doesn't mean your cat shares the same view. The trigger for her fearful behavior could be anything. Some common triggers are:

A particular person
A stranger
Another animal
A child
Loud noises
What You Can Do

Take the following steps to reduce your cat's anxiety and help her become more confident:


First, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian for a thorough physical examination to rule out any medical reasons for your cat's fearful behavior. Cats don't always act sick, even when they are. Any sudden behavior change could mean that your cat is ill. Some common symptoms that suggest your cat may be sick are sudden aggressiveness, hiding, and eliminating outside the litter box.

If your cat is healthy, but hiding, leave her alone. She'll come out when she's ready. To force her out of her hiding spot will only make her more fearful. Make sure she has easy access to food, water, and her litter box. Clean the litter box and change the food and water every day so you know whether she is eating and drinking.

Keep any contact with the fear stimulus to a minimum.

Keep your cat's routine as consistent as possible. Cats feel more confident if they know when to expect daily feeding, playing, cuddling, and grooming.

Try to desensitize your cat to the fear stimulus by following these steps:

Determine what distance your cat can be from the fear stimulus without responding fearfully.

Introduce the fear stimulus at this distance while you're feeding your cat tasty treats and praising her.

Slowly move the fear stimulus closer as you continue to praise your cat and offer her treats.

If at any time during this process your cat shows fearful behavior, you've proceeded too quickly and will need to start over from the beginning. This is the most common mistake people make when desensitizing an animal, and it can be avoided by working in short sessions, paying careful attention to your cat so that you don't progress too rapidly for her.

You may need help with the desensitization process from a professional animal-behavior specialist.
A Note about Aggression

If your cat seriously threatens you, another person, or an animal—and the behavior is not an isolated incident—you should seek help as soon as possible from a professional animal-behavior specialist. Contact your veterinarian or animal shelter for assistance or a referral if you need a specialist. To keep everyone safe in the meantime, confine your cat to an area of the house where all interactions with her are kept to a minimum and are supervised by a responsible person.

Cat bites and scratches are serious and can easily become infected. Bites that need to be treated by a doctor should be reported to your local animal control agency so that your cat can be quarantined and watched for signs of rabies. If you can't keep your cat separated from the stimulus that brings on her aggressive behavior and you're unable to work with a professional animal behavior specialist, it may be time to re-evaluate the cat's situation in your home. Remember, trying to place an aggressive cat in a new home should be done with extreme caution. The safety of your cat and of the other animals and humans she encounters should be your first consideration.

What Not to Do


Do not punish your cat for her fearful behavior. Animals associate punishment with what they're doing at the time they're punished, so your cat is likely to associate any punishment you give her with you. This will only cause her to become fearful of you and she still won't understand why she's being punished.

Do not force your cat to experience the object or situation that is causing her fear. For example, if she is afraid of a certain person, don't let that person try to pick her up and hold her; this will only make her more fearful of that person.

Be cautious in handling your cat when she is frightened. She may accidentally direct her aggression to you.

If your cat's behavior changes suddenly, the first thing you should do is take her to your veterinarian for a thorough health examination. Cats often hide symptoms of illness until they're seriously ill; any change in behavior may be an early indication of a medical problem. A new vocalizing behavior, in particular, may indicate physical discomfort stemming from an urgent need for medical attention. A normally vocal cat who stops talking is also in need of a medical checkup.

Breed Tendency

Oriental breeds, such as the Siamese, are known to be very vocal. If your cat has a pointed face and a long, lean body, chances are she has some oriental heritage, so "talking" may be a part of her character. If your cat's chatter bothers you, then avoid giving her any attention when she is vocal because this will only encourage the vocal behavior. Instead, give her attention when she is quiet.

Attention-Seeking Behavior

Some cats "talk" because they know they'll get a reaction. People may talk back, put out some food, pick up and soothe the cat, or even pick the animal up and temporarily "lock" her in another room. All of these responses will encourage an attention-seeking cat. To discourage this behavior, simply ignore your cat when she does this, and when she is quiet, pour on the love, feed her, or give her some treats. This will teach your cat which behaviors you would like her to continue.

Your Cat Wants to Go Outside

If your cat was previously an outdoor cat and you plan to keep her safely inside, then good for you! The following are some suggestions to help make the transition easier on both of you:


Spay or Neuter Your Cat. Spaying or neutering will rid your cat of those hormonal urges to go out and seek a mate. This will result in a calmer, friendlier cat.

Create a Play Schedule. Schedule play times during the times your cat would normally be outside. This will distract her from her normal routine and establish another, safer routine.

Provide a Window Seat. Be sure your cat has a view of the outdoors and a sunny place to lie. Cats like to watch birds, so putting a bird feeder outside a window is likely to make the window a favorite spot for your cat.

Run a Scavenger Hunt. Give your cat a game to play by hiding bits of dry food around the house. Hide the food in paper bags, boxes, and behind open doors. This will give her exercise and keep her busy so she doesn't think of going outside. This is especially good to do right before the family leaves the house for the day.

Pay Attention. Try to give your cat extra love and attention during this difficult transition.

Try Aversives. If your cat still won't give up meowing by the door, try an "aversive." For example, leave a strong citrus scent by the door to help make the area undesirable to your cat. Totally ignore her vocalizations. Whenever she is quiet, give her a food treat and encourage her to play or cuddle.
Grief

After the death or departure of a person or animal in your cat's life, she may vocalize to express her grief. This can be a normal part of the grieving process. The best thing you can do for her is keep her schedule the same (or as close to it as possible) and spend some extra time cuddling and playing with her. With time, this problem should take care of itself. If your cat does not return to her normal self, consult your veterinarian.

Transition

If your cat is new to your home or has just gone through a change—such as a person or other animal moving into or out of the home—and she has just started her talkative behavior, be patient. It may be happening due to the transition and will stop on its own if the behavior is not encouraged. Remember, even scolding can be perceived by your cat as attention, and thus encourage the behavior.

If you're having a hard time persuading your cat to use the litter box, it just may be time to draw a line in the sand. Most cats prefer eliminating on a loose, grainy substance, which is why they quickly learn to use a litter box. But when their preferences include the laundry basket, the bed, or the Persian rug, you may find yourself with a difficult problem. By taking a closer look at your cat's environment, you should be able to identify factors that have contributed to the problem, and make changes that encourage your cat to head for the litter box once again.
The most common reasons why cats don't use the litter box are an aversion to the box, such as dislike of a covered box, or dissatisfaction with the depth of the litter. Two other common reasons are a preference for a particular type of litter not provided in the box, or a preference for a particular location where there is no box.

Sometimes, the problem is a combination of all these factors. To get to the answer, you'll need to do a little detective work—and remember, the original source of the problem may not be the reason it's continuing. For example, your cat may have stopped using the litter box because of a urinary tract infection, and then developed a surface preference for carpet and a location preference for the bedroom closet. If that's the case, you'll need to address all three of these factors to resolve the problem.

Cats don't stop using their litter boxes because they're upset at their human caregivers and are determined to get revenge for something that "offended" them. Because humans act for these reasons, it's easy for us to assume that our pets do as well. But animals don't act out of spite or revenge, so it won't help to punish your cat or give her special privileges in the hope that she'll start using the litter box again.

Medical Problems

It's common for cats with medical problems to begin eliminating outside of their litter box. For example, a urinary tract infection or crystals in the urine can make urination painful—and both are serious conditions that require medical attention. Cats often associate this pain with the litter box and begin to avoid it. So if your cat has a house-soiling problem, check with your veterinarian first to rule out any medical problems. Cats don't always act sick, even when they are, and only a trip to the veterinarian for a thorough physical examination can rule out a medical problem.

Cleaning Soiled Areas

Because animals are highly motivated to continue soiling an area that smells like urine or feces—and because cats' sense of smell is so much stronger than humans'—it's important to thoroughly and properly clean the soiled areas.

Urine stains will glow in the dark under a fluorescent black light, which can generally be purchased at hardware and pet supply stores. Once located, the stains should be cleaned with an enzymatic cleaner, also available at pet supply stores. Strong smelling household cleaners will do little to eliminate the odor or deter your pet from re-marking the area. Be sure to clean the area thoroughly before steam cleaning to avoid "locking in" the odor.

Aversion to the Litter Box

Your cat may have decided the litter box is an unpleasant place to eliminate if:


The box is not clean enough for her.

She has experienced painful urination or defecation in the box due to a medical problem.

She has been startled by a noise while using the box.

She has been "ambushed" while in the box by another cat, a child, a dog, or by you, if you were attempting to catch her for some reason.

She associates the box with punishment. (For example, someone punished her for eliminating outside the box, then placed her in the box.)
What You Can Do:


Keep the litter box extremely clean. Scoop at least once a day and change the litter completely every four to five days. If you use scoopable litter, you may not need to change the litter as frequently, depending on the number of cats in the household, the size of the cats, and the number of litter boxes. If you can smell the box, then you can be pretty sure it's offensive to your cat as well.

Add a new box in a different location, and use a different type of litter in the new box. Because your cat has decided that her old litter box is unpleasant, you'll want to make the new one different enough that she doesn't simply apply the old, negative associations to the new box.

Make sure that the litter box isn't near an appliance (such as a furnace) that makes noise, or in an area of the home that your cat doesn't frequent.

If ambushing is a problem, create more than one exit from the litter box, so that if the "ambusher" is waiting by one area, your cat always has an escape route.

If you have multiple cats, provide one litter box for each cat, plus one extra box in a different location.
Surface Preferences

All animals develop preferences for a particular surface on which they like to eliminate. These preferences may be established early in life, but they may also change overnight for reasons that we don't always understand. Your cat may have a surface preference if:


She consistently eliminates on a particular texture—for example, soft-textured surfaces such as carpeting, bedding, or clothing, or slick-textured surfaces such as tile, cement, bathtubs, or sinks.

She frequently scratches on this same texture after elimination, even if she eliminates in the litter box.

She is or was previously an outdoor cat and prefers to eliminate on grass or soil.
What You Can Do:


If you recently changed the type or brand of cat litter, go back to providing the litter that your cat had been using.

If your cat is eliminating on soft surfaces, try using a high-quality, scoopable litter.

If your cat is eliminating on slick, smooth surfaces, try putting a very thin layer of litter at one end of the box, leaving the other end bare, and put the box on a hard floor.

If your cat has a history of being outdoors, add some soil or sod to the litter box.
Location Preferences

Your cat may have a location preference if:


She always eliminates in quiet, protected places, such as under a desk, beneath a staircase, or in a closet.

She eliminates in an area where the litter box was previously kept or where there are urine odors.

She eliminates on a different level of the home from where the litter box is located.
What You Can Do:


Put at least one litter box on every level of your home. (Remember, a properly cleaned litter box does not smell.)

To make the area where she has been eliminating less appealing to your cat, cover the area with upside-down carpet runner or aluminum foil, place citrus-scented cotton balls over the area, or place water bowls in the area (because cats often don't like to eliminate near where they eat or drink).
OR


Put a litter box in the location where your cat has been eliminating. When she has consistently used this box for at least one month, you may gradually move it to a more convenient location at a rate of an inch—seriously!—per day.
Everyone Makes Mistakes

If you catch your cat in the act of eliminating outside the litter box, do something to interrupt her like making a startling noise, but be careful not to scare her. Immediately take her to the litter box and set her on the floor nearby. If she wanders over to the litter box, wait and praise her after she eliminates in the box. If she takes off in another direction, she may want privacy, so watch from afar until she goes back to the litter box and eliminates, then praise her when she does.

Don't ever punish your cat for eliminating outside of the litter box. By the time you find the soiled area, it's too late to administer a correction. Do nothing but clean it up. Rubbing your cat's nose in it, taking her to the spot and scolding her, or inflicting any other type of punishment will only make her afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Animals don't understand punishment after the fact, even if it's only seconds later, and trying to punish them will often make matters worse.

Other Types of House Soiling Problems

Marking/Spraying: To determine if your cat is marking or spraying, consult a veterinarian or animal behaviorist.

Fears or Phobias: When animals become frightened, they may lose.

playing with your kitten evolves from peek-a-boo to professional wrestling in a matter of seconds, follow these tips to keep playtime interesting and reduce the number of trips to the first-aid kit. Cats incorporate a variety of behaviors into their play, such as exploratory, investigative, and predatory behaviors—skills they would normally need for survival. As you've probably already learned, kittens like to explore new areas and investigate anything that moves, and may bat at, pounce on, and bite objects that resemble prey. It's not always easy for cats to draw the line between acceptable play and overly aggressive behavior, so play-motivated, aggressive behaviors are common in young, active cats less than two years of age, and in cats who live in one-cat households.
Kittens learn how to inhibit their bite from their littermates and their mother. A kitten who is separated from her family too early may play more roughly than a kitten who has had more valuable family time. In addition, if humans play with a young kitten using their hands and/or feet instead of toys, the kitten is liable to learn that rough play with people is okay. In most cases, it's not too difficult to teach your kitten or young adult cat that rough play isn't acceptable. Here are some tips:

Encourage Acceptable Behavior

Redirect your kitten's aggressive behavior onto acceptable objects like toys. Drag a toy along the floor to encourage your kitten to pounce on it, or throw a toy away from your kitten to give her even more exercise chasing the toy down. Some kittens will even bring the toy back to be thrown again. You can also try toys that your kitten can wrestle with, like a soft stuffed animal that's about her size, so she can grab it with both front feet, bite it, and kick it with her back feet. This is one of the ways kittens play with each other, especially when they're young. It's also one of the ways they try to play with human feet and hands, so it's important to provide this type of alternative play target. Encourage play with a "wrestling toy" by rubbing it against your kitten's belly when she wants to play roughly—and be sure to get your hand out of the way as soon as she accepts the toy.

Because kittens need a lot of playtime, try to set up three or four consistent times during the day to initiate play with your kitten. This will help her understand that she doesn't have to be the one to initiate play by pouncing on you.

Discourage Unacceptable Behavior

You need to set the rules for your kitten's behavior, and every person your cat comes in contact with should reinforce these rules. Your kitten can't be expected to learn that it's okay to play rough with Dad, but not with the baby.


Use aversives to discourage your kitten from nipping. You can either use a squirt bottle filled with water and a small amount of vinegar, or a can of pressurized air to squirt your kitten when she starts getting too rough. To use this technique effectively, you'll need to have the spray bottle or can handy at all times—it's absolutely essential to use the aversive while the rough behavior is occurring. So either place a spray bottle in each room, or carry one with you as you move around the house. In some cases, you may want to apply taste aversives to your hands. If you have sensitive skin, you can wear gloves and put the aversive on the gloves. The possible disadvantage to this method is that your kitten may learn that "hands with gloves taste bad and those without gloves don't." Remember that aversives will work only if you offer your kitten acceptable alternatives.

Redirect the behavior after using the aversive. After you startle your kitten with the aversive, immediately offer her a toy to wrestle with or chase. This will encourage her to direct her rough play onto a toy instead of a person. We recommend keeping a stash of toys hidden in each room specifically for this purpose.

Withdraw attention when your kitten starts to play too roughly. If the distraction and redirection techniques don't seem to be working, the most drastic thing you can do to discourage your cat from rough play is to withdraw all attention. She wants to play with you, so if you keep this limit consistent, she'll eventually figure out how far she can go. The best way to withdraw your attention is to walk to another room and close the door long enough for her to calm down. If you pick her up to put her in another room, then you're rewarding her by touching her, so you should always be the one to leave the room.
Please Note: None of these methods will be very effective unless you also give your kitten acceptable outlets for her energy—by playing with her regularly using appropriate toys.

What Not to Do


Attempts to tap, flick, or hit your kitten for rough play are almost guaranteed to backfire. Your kitten could become afraid of your hands, or she could interpret those flicks as playful moves by you and play even more roughly as a result.

Picking up your kitten to put her into a "timeout" may reinforce her behavior because she probably enjoys the physical contact of being picked up. By the time you get her to the timeout room and close the door, she may have already forgotten what she did to be put in that situation.

There are many factors that contribute to the safety or danger of a toy. Many of those factors, however, are completely dependent upon your cat's size, activity level and personal preference. Another factor to be considered is the environment in which your cat spends her time. Although we can't guarantee your cat's enthusiasm or her safety with any specific toy, we can offer the following guidelines.

Ping-Pong balls and plastic practice golf balls with holes, to help cats carry them. Try putting one in a dry bathtub, as the captive ball is much more fun than one that escapes under the sofa. You'll probably want to remove the balls from the bathtub before bedtime, unless you can't hear the action from your bedroom. Two o'clock in the morning seems to be a prime time for this game

Paper bags with any handles removed. Paper bags are good for pouncing, hiding and interactive play. They're also a great distraction if you need your cat to pay less attention to what you're trying to accomplish. Plastic bags are not a good idea, as many cats like to chew and ingest the plastic.

Sisal-wrapped toys are very attractive to cats that tend to ignore soft toys.

Empty cardboard rolls from toilet paper and paper towels are ideal cat toys, especially if you "unwind" a little cardboard to get them started.

Medical Reasons
If your cat's behavior changes suddenly, the first thing you should do is take her to your veterinarian for a thorough health examination. Cats often hide symptoms of illness until they're seriously ill. Any change in behavior may be an early indication of a medical problem. A new vocalizing behavior, in particular, may indicate physical discomfort stemming from an urgent need for medical attention.

Breed Tendency
Oriental breeds, such as the Siamese, are known to be very vocal. If your cat has a pointed face and a long, lean body, chances are she has some oriental heritage, so "talking" may be a part of her character. Avoid giving her any attention when she is vocal because this will only encourage the vocal behavior. Instead, give her attention when she is quiet.

Attention-Seeking Behavior
Some cats "talk" because they know they'll get a reaction. People may talk back, feed her, yell at her, pick her up and lock her in another room, or pick her up and soothe her. All of these responses will encourage an attention-seeking cat. To discourage this behavior, simply ignore your cat when she does this, and when she is quiet, pour on the love, feed her or give her some treats. This will teach your cat which behaviors you would like her to continue.

Your Cat Wants To Go Outside
If your cat was previously an outdoor cat and you plan to keep her inside, then good for you! Following are some suggestions to help make the transition easier on both of you.

Spay or Neuter: Spaying or neutering will rid your cat of those hormonal urges to go out and seek a mate. This will result in a calmer, friendlier cat.
Play Schedule: Schedule play times during the times your cat would normally be outside. This will distract her from her normal routine and establish another, safer routine.
Window Seat: Be sure your cat has a view of the outdoors and a sunny place to lie. Cats like to watch birds, so putting a bird feeder outside this window is likely to make it a favorite spot for your cat.
Scavenger Hunt: Give your cat a game to play by hiding bits of dry food around the house. Hide the food in paper bags, boxes and behind open doors. This will give her exercise and keep her busy so she doesn't think of going outside. This is especially good to do right before the family leaves the house for the day.
Attention: Try to give your cat extra love and attention during this difficult transition.
Aversives: If your cat still won't give up meowing by the door, try an aversive. Leave strong citrus scents by the door or hide behind a wall and shake a pop can filled with coins to interrupt the behavior. When she is quiet, walk out and give her a food treat and encourage her to play or cuddle.
Grief
Sometimes after the death or departure of a person or animal in your cat's life, she will vocalize to express her grief. This can be a normal part of the grieving process. The best thing you can do for her is keep her schedule the same (or as close as possible) and spend some extra cuddle and playtime with her. With time, this problem should take care of itself.

Transition
If your cat is new to your home or has just gone through a change (move, new person/animal in the household, person moved out)and has just started her talkative behavior, be patient. This may be happening due to the transition and will stop on its own if the behavior is not encouraged. Remember, even scolding can be perceived by your cat as attention, and thus encourage the behavior

Play sessions provide the best opportunity to teach your cat not to bite, scratch or play- attack you. Playtime is the best time to teach your cat that he must be careful and gentle. The cat is only allowed to play using his paws, not his claws. He should learn never to bite you.
Start by enticing kitty into a gentle game of play fighting. Continuously praise the cat all the time he remains gentle. Gradually increase the excitement and intensity of the game, keeping your eyes glued to kitty. As soon as you see that the cat is getting too excited or he begins to expose his claws or teeth, immediately freeze and "play dead." This usually causes a cat to calm down and retract its claws. If kitty complies, then resume playing. If not, the play must not resume until kitty calms down and retracts his claws. If kitty bites hard or scratches you, sharply scream "OUCH," immediately stop playing, walk away and ignore him.

Cats, especially kittens, love to play. Abruptly ending a play session is an extremely powerful reprimand. With a few repetitions, kitty will learn that it is his own overly rambunctious or aggressive behavior that brings an end to all the fun.

While your cat is learning not to bite and claw you, it is equally as important that you provide kitty with something he can pounce on, attack, grab with his claws and sink his teeth into.

Unless your cat has real prey to hunt, you are going to have to provide the play prey. If you simply toss a few toys on the floor, your cat may give them a few swats then quickly lose interest. It is up to you to make the toys fun. Play should be an interactive game between you and your cat. Tie a toy to the end of a length of string. Drag it around your house with kitty in pouncing pursuit. Pet stores are full of both inexpensive and exotic toys for your cat. Use your imagination and create your own toys. The idea is to stimulate your cat's interest and participation. Two 15 minute play sessions a day will work wonders in venting your cats excess energy as well as fulfilling his predatory instincts

In "Alice Through the Looking Glass", Lewis Carroll wrote "It is a very inconvenient habit of kittens that whatever you say to them, they always purr. If they would only purr for 'yes' and mew for 'no', or any rule of that sort, so that one could keep up a conversation! But how can one deal with a person if they always say the same thing?"

Lewis Carroll, it seems, was not a keen observer of cats, otherwise he would have noticed that cats do not always say the same thing! They make a variety of different sounds which, among humans would be called "words", but in our belief that we are naturally superior to "dumb" animals, we don't call cat-sounds "words". Since the sounds don't conform to our notion of grammatical structure, it simply appears that cats lack language.

To the uninitiated, and probably to Lewis Carroll, the simple "miaow" is an all-purpose word. Most cat-owners, however, are aware that there are a whole variety of miaows that differ in pitch, rhythm, volume, tone and pronunciation. Jean Craighead George attempted to categorize these according to the cat's age, gender and situation:-

Kittens:

Mew (high pitched and thin) - a polite plea for help
MEW! (loud and frantic) - an urgent plea for help
Adult cats:

mew - plea for attention
mew (soundless) - a very polite plea for attention (this is Paul Gallico's "Silent Miaow" which is probably a sound pitched too high for human ears)
meow - emphatic plea for attention
MEOW! - a command!
mee-o-ow (with falling cadence) - protest or whine
MEE-o-ow (shrill whine) - stronger protest
MYUP! (short, sharp, single note) - righteous indignation
MEOW! Meow! (repeated) - panicky call for help
mier-r-r-ow (chirrup with liting cadence) - friendly greeting

Humans have an instinctive need to communicate with fellow humans and to receive communication in return. This drive is often extended to our interaction with non-humans. Just as we look for recognisable sounds when babies learn to talk, we look for recognisable sounds in our cats' "vocabulary". Rather than simply distinguishing a "feed me" miaow from a "let me out please" miaow we try to interpret some of these sounds as words and are remarkably good at self-deception, so if the "I want more grub" noise sounds a bit like "keow" we think our cat is calling us a cow for not giving it a big enough helping in the first place. Cats which "talk" are probably making native feline sounds that sound a little like human words and which, if delivered under the right circumstances, are interpreted as words by beings geared to verbal communication.

I say probably, because here there is a slightly gray area. According to American vet Dr Michael W Fox cats can learn behaviors through observation. My own observations suggest that some cats learn to imitate certain sounds as well. Cats can make sounds and work out which sounds elicit suitable responses from humans (positive feedback). Can cats therefore learn to make certain sounds i.e. imitate certain human sounds if they know it will get a favorable response? Here I will have to give cats the benefit of the doubt. It may be that, in spite of lacking the apparatus for speech, some cats do indeed make the effort. Equally, it may be that owners are over-compensating for the cat's inability to talk and are hearing what they want to hear, regardless of what the cat has really said!

Another feature of human speech is that it comes in bursts; a mix of different sounds and pauses between sounds, plus inflection and intonation. Tone of voice probably means much more to a cat than the actual words used, although many owners maintain that their cat understands every word they say. Cats certainly manage intonation and can miaow in a questioning manner, a demanding manner, a forlorn manner or simply as a statement. By observing our response they adopt the various tones of miaow for appropriate circumstances. Puss probably isn't thinking "I want to go out so I shall ask nicely," he is more likely to be thinking "I want to go out and I know that this type of noise usually does the trick."

In their attempts to communicate with us on our own level, some cats put together full "sentences" of noises and pauses. They might simply be inviting us to talk back to them (most cats like this sort of attention from their owners). It is interesting that such cats string together a series of different sounds into a single burst of communication, with pauses between "words", which an owner likens to a sentence. Scrapper (one of felinity's brighter sparks) could hold his own in a conversation with me although I haven't a clue what he was saying, he just liked to talk and liked me to talk back. If he did understand what I was saying to him he could have taken the Business Studies exam with me (if he was trying to enlighten me on a particular aspect of management structure then I'm afraid it went right over my head). Some owners say that their cats do much the same and are right chatterboxes, with Siamese and Oriental cats being particularly vocal.

Each movement of a cat's tail communicates its emotional state. The tail wagging of a cat in conflict is perhaps the most familiar, but there are other tail signals that humans might learn for a clue about kitty's mood at the moment:

The tail is curved gently downward and then curves up again at the tip.
The cat is relaxed and at peace with the world.

The tail is raised slightly and softly curved.
The cat is beginning to get interested in something.

The tail is held erect, but tip is tilted over.
The cat is very interested and is in a friendly mood, but has slight reservations.

The tail is fully erect, and tip is stiffly vertical.
The cat is offering an intense greeting without reservations.

The tail is erect with whole length quivering gently.
The cat is displaying affection, as in response to a greeting by a favored human.

The tail is held still, but tip is twitching slightly.
The cat is mildly irritated.

The tail is held still, but tip is twitching vigorously.
The cat is very irritated, and a bad-tempered paw swipe is about to occur.

The tail is swishing vigorously from side to side.
The cat is angry and about to attack.

The tail is held straight and fully bristled.
The cat is aggressive.

The tail is arched and bristled.
The cat is defensive and may attack if provoked further.

The tail is lowered and fluffed out.
The cat is indicating an active fear.

The tail is fully lowered and may be tucked between hind legs.
The cat is giving a signal of defeat or total submissiveness.

The tail is held to one side.
The female cat in heat is inviting a sexual encounter.

***Take this page as entertainment value, because if cats ever found out
that we were onto their tail signals, they'd just change them anyway!.

An often perplexing case history involves a cat that one moment lies peacefully purring on the owner's lap, happily accepting affection; and the next moment, erupts into a rage of claws and teeth. The owner is shocked by the sudden attack. It's actually normal behavior for cats to have quick reversals of mood and behavior. There's a fine line between enjoyable petting and irritating handling. Once the petting reaches a certain threshold, the cat will reject any further touching. The cat says, "Stop it!" by biting or scratching. Perhaps a sensitive or painful area was unknowingly touched. Continuous pleasurable stimulation can overexcite the cat causing aggressive behavior. The cat becomes sexually excited and the resulting aggression is a part of normal sexual behavior.

When trying to solve any problem, especially with cats, it is important to be realistic and patient. Don't push your cat beyond his limits then get frustrated because he isn't living up to your expectations. Give him some considerations and don't expect him to necessarily change to suit you.
If your cat often becomes over-stimulated with 5 minutes of petting and stroking, then stop at 3 minutes. Don't push him over the edge and then wonder why he bit you! In this type of situation, cats usually give other warning signs that they are going to bite. Watch your cat and notice his body language when he gets over stimulated or irritated. Usually the ears will flatten, he will turn and stare at you, or his tail will start to flick.

If your cat has lived all his life in a quiet, private home and you suddenly bring in a bus load of noisy, rambunctious children, don't expect your cat to accept this.

Training a cat to stop play biting is relatively easy with both adult cats and kittens. However, training a cat not to bite in fear and anger is best and most easily accomplished in kittenhood. If you have an older cat who has been biting for many years, it is going to take much more time and energy to cure it. But this doesn't mean you shouldn't start. Many older cats can be taught to accept situations without reacting aggressively. It just takes longer and requires more of your patience. However, the payoff is tremendously gratifying.

Sometimes it's OK to take the path of least resistance. Instead of trying to resocialize Motor and break down his territorial barrier, I will accept it and respect it. Life is too short for both of us to change his behavior now.

Territorial Aggression: Territorial aggression occurs when a cat feels that his territory has been invaded by an intruder. Cats are very territorial—much more so than dogs—and female cats can be just as territorial as males. The behavior patterns in this type of aggression include chasing and ambushing the intruder, as well as hissing and swatting when contact occurs. Territorial problems often occur when a new cat is brought into a household, when a young kitten reaches maturity, or when a cat sees or encounters neighborhood cats outside. It's not uncommon for a cat to be territorially aggressive toward one cat in a family yet friendly and tolerant to another.

Defensive aggression occurs when a cat is attempting to protect himself from an attack he believes he cannot escape. This can occur in response to punishment or the threat of punishment from a person, an attack or attempted attack from another cat, or any incident that makes the animal feel threatened or afraid. Defensive postures include crouching with the legs pulled in under the body, laying the ears back, tucking the tail, and rolling slightly to the side. These responses are not the same as the submissive postures dogs show because they're not intended to "turn off" an attack from another cat. Continuing to approach a cat in this posture is likely to precipitate an attack

This type of aggression is directed toward another animal, or even a person, who didn't initially provoke the behavior. For example, a household cat sitting in the window may see an outdoor cat walk across the front yard. Because he can't attack the outdoor cat, he may instead turn and attack the family cat sitting next to him in the window.
What You Can Do


If your cat's behavior changes suddenly, your first step should always be to contact your veterinarian for a thorough health examination. Cats often hide symptoms of illness until they're seriously ill, and any change in behavior may be an early indication of a medical problem.

Spay or neuter any intact pets in your home. The behavior of one intact animal can affect all of your pets.

Start the slow introduction process over from the beginning. You may want to talk to an animal behavior specialist for help implementing these techniques.

In extreme cases, consult with your veterinarian about medicating your cats while you're working on a behavior-modification program. Your veterinarian is the only person who is licensed and qualified to prescribe medication for your cat, so don't attempt to give your cat any over-the-counter or prescription medication without some guidance. Animals don't respond to drugs the same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for a human could be fatal to an animal. Also keep in mind that medication, by itself, isn't a permanent solution, and should only be used in conjunction with behavior modification.
What Not to Do


If your cats are fighting, don't allow the fights to continue. Because cats are so territorial, and because they don't establish firm dominance hierarchies, they won't be able to "work things out" as dogs sometimes do. The more often cats fight, the worse the problem is likely to become. To stop a fight in progress, make a loud noise (like blowing a whistle), squirt the cats with water, or throw something soft at them. Don't try to pull them apart.

Prevent future fights. This may mean keeping the cats totally separated from each other while you're working on the problem, or at least preventing contact between them during situations likely to trigger a fight.

Don't try to punish the cats involved. Punishment is likely to elicit further aggression and fearful responses, which will only make the problem worse. If you attempt to punish either combatant, you may even become a target for redirected aggression.
Because their social organization is somewhat flexible, some cats are relatively willing to share their house and territory with multiple cats. It's not uncommon for a cat to tolerate some cats, but not get along with others in the house. But the more cats who share the same territory, the more likely it is that some of your cats will begin fighting with each other.

When you introduce cats to each other, one of them may send "play" signals that can be misinterpreted by the other cat. If those signals are interpreted as aggression by one of the cats, then you should handle the situation as "aggression" and seek professional help right away.

There are many factors that determine how well cats will get along with one another, but even animal behavior experts don't fully understand them. What we do know is that cats who are well-socialized (those who had pleasant experiences with other cats during kittenhood) will likely be more sociable than those who haven't been around many other cats. On the other hand, "street cats," who are in the habit of fighting with other cats to defend their territory and food resources, may not do well in a multi-cat household.

Adult male cats normally tend to threaten, and sometimes fight with, other males. These behaviors can occur as sexual challenges over a female, or to achieve a relatively high position in the cats' loosely organized social hierarchy. This type of aggression involves much ritualized body posturing, stalking, staring, yowling, and howling. Attacks are usually avoided if one cat "backs down" and walks away. If an attack occurs, the attacker will usually jump forward, directing a bite to the nape of the neck, while the opponent falls to the ground on his back and attempts to bite and scratch the attacker's belly with his hind legs. The cats may roll around biting and screaming, suddenly stop, resume posturing, fight again, or walk away. Cats don't often injure one another this way, but you should always check for puncture wounds, which are prone to infection. Neutered males are much less likely to fight in this way—yet another great argument for having your animal sterilized

Cats that have not been adequately gentled and socialized during kittenhood are generally suspicious and fearful of people. If they don't like being approached, touched, handled or picked up, they often tell you so by biting and scratching. Even cats that are socialized can become angry or frightened in certain situations. Maybe they don't like being picked up by a stranger (the vet) and getting jabbed with a needle (routine vaccination). Some cats are fine until its bath time. Every cat has its limits. The more gentling and socialization kitty receives during kittenhood, the less likely a situation will come up that will frighten or anger the cat. Read more on your cats social behavior.
Once a cat learns that its aggressive display is successful at warding off the perceived threat, the more likely the cat will act aggressive again. In other words, the cat is rewarded for acting aggressive because the threat or annoyance goes away. In this case, we have unintentionally trained the cat to be aggressive. If I reached out to pet a cat and it aggressively struck out at me, I most certainly would obediently withdraw. I don't want to get scratched or bitten. Now the behavior becomes even more difficult to cure and the cat more dangerous to handle.

Much like the miners during the Gold Rush, dogs and cats are territorial animals. They "stake a claim" to a particular space, area, or object. They let other people and animals know about their claim by marking it using a variety of methods at different levels of intensity. For example, a dog may bark to drive away what he perceives to be intruders in his territory. A cat may mark a valued object by rubbing her head against it. Some pets may go to the extreme of urinating or defecating to mark a particular area as their own. Urine-marking is not a house soiling problem. Instead, it is considered territorial behavior. Therefore, to resolve the problem, you need to address the underlying reason for your pet's need to mark his territory in this way. Before this can be done, however, take your pet to the veterinarian to rule out any medical causes for his behavior.
House Soiling or Urine-Marking: How to Tell the Difference

Your pet may be urine-marking if:


The problem is primarily urination. Dogs and cats rarely mark with feces.

The amount of urine is small and is found primarily on vertical surfaces. (Dogs and cats do sometimes mark on horizontal surfaces.) Leg-lifting and spraying are dominant versions of urine-marking, but even if your pet doesn't assume these postures, he may still be urine-marking.

Any pet in your home is not spayed or neutered. Intact males and females are both more likely to urine-mark than are spayed or neutered animals. However, even spayed or neutered animals may mark in response to other intact animals in the home.

Your pet urinates on new objects in the environment (a shopping bag, a visitor's purse), on objects that have unfamiliar smells, or on objects that have another animal's scent.

Your pet has conflicts with other animals in your home. When there's instability in the pack hierarchy, a dog may feel a need to establish his dominance by urine-marking his territory. If one cat is intimidating another cat, the bullied cat may express his anxiety by urine-marking.

Your pet has contact with other animals outside your home. A cat who is allowed outdoors may come home and mark after having an encounter with another cat outside. If your pet sees another animal through a door or window, he may feel a need to mark his territory.

Your dog marks frequently when you walk him.
What You Can Do


Spay or neuter your pet as soon as possible. Spaying or neutering your pet may stop urine-marking altogether. However, if he has been urine-marking for a long time, a pattern may already be established.

Resolve conflicts between animals in your home. (For help, see our tips on Solving Aggression Between Family Cats.)

Restrict your pet's access to doors and windows through which he can observe animals outside. If this isn't possible, discourage the presence of other animals near your house. (See our tips on Discouraging Free-Roaming Cats.)

Keep your cat indoors. He'll be safer, live longer, and feel less need to mark his territory.

Clean soiled areas thoroughly. (See Removing Pet Stains and Odors.) Don't use strong-smelling cleaners because they may cause your pet to "over-mark" the spot.

Make previously soiled areas inaccessible or unattractive. (See our tip sheets on using aversives to modify your pet's behavior.) If this isn't possible, try to change the significance of those areas to your pet. Feed, treat, and play with your pet in the areas he is inclined to mark.

Keep objects likely to cause marking out of reach. Items such as guests' belongings and new purchases should be placed in a closet or cabinet.

If your pet is marking in response to a new resident in your home (such as a roommate or spouse), have the new resident make friends with your pet by feeding, grooming, and playing with your pet. If you have a new baby, make sure good things happen to your pet when the baby is around. (See our advice on Introducing Your Pet and New Baby.)

For dogs: Watch your dog when he is indoors for signs that he is thinking about urinating. When he begins to urinate, interrupt him with a loud noise and take him outside. If he urinates outside, praise him and give him a treat. When you're unable to watch him, put your dog in confinement (a crate or small room where he has never marked) or tether him to you with a leash.

For dogs: Practice "nothing in life is free" with your dog. (See Nothing In Life Is Free.) This is a safe, non-confrontational way to establish your leadership and requires your dog to work for everything he wants from you. Have your dog obey at least one command (such as "sit") before you pet him, give him dinner, put on his leash, or throw him a toy. Establishing yourself as a strong leader can help stabilize the hierarchy and thus diminish your dog's need to mark his territory.

For cats: Try to monitor your cat's movements. If he sniffs in an area he has previously marked, interrupt him with a loud noise or squirt him with water. It's best if you can do this without him seeing you. That way, he'll associate the unpleasantness with his intent to mark, rather than with you.
What Not to Do

Don't punish your pet after the fact. Punishment administered even a minute after the event is ineffective because your pet won't understand why he is being punished.

Pets Aren't People

Dogs and cats don't urinate or defecate out of spite or jealousy. If your dog urinates on your baby's diaper bag, it's not because he is jealous of, or dislikes, your baby. The unfamiliar scents and sounds of a new baby in the home are simply causing him to reaffirm his claim on his territory. Likewise, if your cat urinates on your new boyfriend's backpack, it does not reflect his opinion of your taste in men. Instead, he has perceived the presence of an "intruder" and is letting the intruder know that this territory belongs to him.

Dominance or Anxiety?

Urine-marking is usually associated with dominance behavior. Some pets, though, may mark when they feel anxious or upset. For example, a new baby in the home brings new sounds, smells, and people, as well as changes in routine. Your dog or cat probably isn't getting as much attention as he was used to getting. All of these changes cause him to feel anxious, which may cause him to mark.

Likewise, a pet who is generally anxious may become more so by the presence of roaming neighborhood animals in your yard, or by the introduction of a new cat or dog into your household. If your pet is feeling anxious, you might consider talking to your veterinarian about medications to reduce his anxiety while you try behavior modification techniques.

Urine spraying

The application of urine to mark territory is different from the release of urine to eliminate waste from the body. Urine-marking is called spraying, and the strategies for addressing it are different from those that you use in getting a cat to use a litter box.

The cat who's marking territory backs up to the object he wants to mark and sprays urine backward, with his tail held high and quivering, alternating his weight on his back feet.

Although both male and female cats spray, unneutered males are the biggest offenders, followed by unspayed females in season. The first rule of dealing with this stinky problem is to make sure that your pet is neutered - this procedure takes care of the problem in 90 percent of the cases if done before sexual maturity is attained, at about six months.

For those cats who don't respond to neutering, environmental stresses - such as a new person in the house or a neighbor's cat in the yard - may be triggering the spraying. Anti-anxiety drugs may help, as can cleaning sprayed areas thoroughly and covering them with foil to discourage fresh marking. (Cats dislike anything involving foil, and the sound of urine hitting the stuff really annoys them.) Don't hit your cat for spraying, even if you catch him in the act - doing so makes him even more insecure and likely to mark.

A few days of isolation in a "safe room" may break the spraying routine. (See the section "Calm kitty," earlier in this chapter, and also the use of safe rooms as discussed in the "Introductions" section of Chapter 5.)

Maybe your cat is trying to tell you something with his spraying. In her entertaining book Hiss and Tell: True Stories From the Files of a Cat Shrink (Crossing Press), behaviorist Pam Johnson writes about a man whose cat sprayed his new wife's work clothes every evening. In the end, he discovered that the woman was having an affair with a coworker, and the cat was reacting to the smell of the other man on the wife's clothing. Pretty smart!



Description:
Urine marking is a normal social behavior of domestic cats which serves several communication functions depending on the context in which the spraying occurs and the temperament and physiology of the individual cat that is spraying. Contrary to popular belief, spraying does not function to exclude other cats from the marking cat’s territory; other cats approach rather than avoid sprayed sites. One possible function of urine marking is to serve as an "advertisement" to a potential sexual partner during the mating season, as the urine gives information about the cat’s identity, age, and mating status.

Diagnosis:
Before a behavioral diagnosis is made, the regular veterinarian must rule out possible medical problems that might be causing the cat’s spraying behavior, such as urinary tract and metabolic diseases. Blood tests, a urinalysis, and other diagnostic procedures may be ordered.



The next step is for the behavioral veterinary specialist or veterinarian to distinguish between urine marking and urination by either observing the cat’s posture or by noting the location of the deposited urine—whether it is on a horizontal or vertical surface. A diagnosis of urine marking can be made if, while urinating, the cat stands with its rear legs very straight so that its hindquarters are slightly higher than the rest of its body. A marking cat also holds its tail either straight up or directed forward at a 45 degree angle, quivers its tail, and makes treading movements with its feet. Occasionally, a cat may mark in a squatting posture. In addition, subtle behavioral differences from those manifested during urination may be observed. For example, the marking cat usually only sniffs the area before expressing urine rather than both before and after, as occurs with urination.

Prognosis:
Castration stops or greatly reduces urine marking in 87 percent of intact males that spray. Generally, cats will cease spraying within two weeks after undergoing this procedure; however, improvement may not occur for up to six months in some cats. The use of medication such as Valium or Buspar along with environmental and behavioral controls results in a 75 percent reduction of spraying in most cats. Unfortunately, urine marking does tend to recur, despite the initial success of treatment. Continuous treatment with medication does not necessarily prevent recurrences and is not recommended due to the increased likelihood of side effects with prolonged usage.

Transmission or Cause:
Genetic differences in cats are partially responsible for the individual differences in spraying behavior among cats. Facilitated by the male hormone testosterone, urine marking occurs primarily as a response to stimuli from other cats because the presence of urine odor may initiate and perpetuate spraying within the household. Thus, cats that live in multiple cat households are much more likely to spray than cats that live in single cat homes; the incidence of spraying in single cat households is 25 percent, while in households or facilities containing 10 or more cats, the incidence is measured at 100 percent. Once spraying develops within the home, there is often a learned association between spraying and specific sites, which then become established "marking-posts."

Treatment:
For unneutered cats, neutering by itself is often effective in eliminating or greatly reducing urine marking. In neutered cats that spray, however, environmental, behavioral and pharmacological management is required.